Nuwe resepte

Pete Wells beoordeel Mission Chinese Food Again, gee weer 2 sterre

Pete Wells beoordeel Mission Chinese Food Again, gee weer 2 sterre

New York Times -restaurantkritikus Pete Wells het die eerste keer hersien Mission Chinese Food op New YorkSe Lower East Side in 2012, en het die restaurant destyds twee sterre gegee. Hierdie week het hy hulle weer beoordeel, aangesien hulle sedertdien weer oopgemaak is in 'n nuwe ruimte met 'n groter kombuis en 'n meer uiteenlopende spyskaart, en hy het hulle weer twee sterre toegeken.

Die redenasie van Wells om die sterregradering van Mission te behou, is dat hulle nou daarop gemik is om gaste 'n meer verfynde ervaring te gee, sodat foute in die kombuis meer opvallend is en 'n bietjie minder vergifnis verdien. Toe hulle op hul ou plek in Orchardstraat was, “die verstommende harde musiek, die elmboë-in-jou-ribbes, die sweet wat veroorsaak word deur chili en die onwaarskynlik lae pryse (niks het meer as $ 15 gekos toe ek die restaurant twee sterre gegee het nie) in 2012) saamgesweer om die verval van die kombuis te dek. U het die stampe geregistreer, maar soos op die Cyclone was dit deel van die rit. Hulle maak meer saak noudat die spyskaart ryk is aan banketgeregte en die restaurant streef na 'n mate van fynheid. ”

Hy gee 'n uiteensetting van hierdie bultjies, onder meer die droë borsvleis op 'n heel eendkonfyt, die prys van $ 150 vir 'n gerookte prima -ribbetjie wat met 'n koningkrapbeen versier is, en die feit dat die personeel opgelei moet word op hul wynlys en hoe korrek oop te maak en 'n bottel te gooi. Dit is egter nie genoeg om die verwydering van 'n ster te regverdig nie, want vir Wells is dit 'n normale verval vir wat 'n byna normale restaurant geword het, teen die kans en tot byna almal se voordeel. Die hallusinasies het moontlik opgehou, maar Mission Chinese Food is nog steeds 'n reis. ”

Die kritikus geniet die nuwe, meer uiteenlopende spyskaart, wat hy toeskryf aan die "goed ingerigte kombuis in die kelder, nie Orchardstraat se smal kombuis agter plexiglas nie." Waar die ou spyskaart hoofsaaklik staatgemaak het op “Mr. [Danny] Bowien se vrydenkende benadering deur die brand en tinteling van chili en Sichuan-peperkorrels, "nou" Minder as 'n derde van die items word gekenmerk deur rooi vlamme ... Die res is nie net minder vuurspuwend nie, maar meer gevarieerd as voorheen, teken van streke buite Sichuan en lande buite China. Sommige daarvan is selfs genuanseerd. ”

So, watter genuanseerde geregte beveel hy aan om te probeer? “Ons gunsteling ansjovis, rooikoolslaai, groen papaja- en piesangblomslaai, Chongqing-hoendervlerkies, brood en botter, mossels in swart boontjiesous, driemaal gaar spek, komynlam, mapo-tofu, vis in groot oond, vis in die oond, kreef en klapper gebraaide rys, hawer noedels, groen tee noedels, Napa kool, Josefina se spesiale hoender. ” Moet hom nie verkeerd verstaan ​​nie: Wells dink nie dat iemand 'Mission Chinese Food' met 'n skaars smaak 'sal vergat nie, maar te oordeel na die ster -gradering en die algehele positiewe resensie, dink hy wel dat diners waarskynlik hul maaltyd sal geniet.


Restaurantresensie: Fung Tu aan die Lower East Side

Fung Tu het in 2013 in Orchardstraat geopen. Die houtstalletjies en bankette met 'n reguit rug word verlig deur kaal bolle met chroom-onderdompeling in veelvlakke glaswebbe, gemaak deur die sjef Jonathan Wu se vrou, die juweliersontwerper Jane D ’Arensbourg.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Fung Tu het in 2013 in Orchardstraat geopen. Die houtstalletjies en bankette met 'n reguit rug word verlig deur kaal bolle met chroom-onderdompeling in veelvlakke glaswebbe, gemaak deur die sjef Jonathan Wu se vrou, die juweliersontwerper Jane D ’Arensbourg.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Sommige vroeë resensies van Fung Tu was gemeng, maar Wu het gereageer. Geregte wat van die begin af heerlik was, is nou minstens so goed. Sommige is dalk beter.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Die kroeg aan die voorkant bied 'n onbedekte baai waar u kan afkoel met cocktails wat die middel tussen tradisie en uitvinding vind.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Wu is 'n tweejarige veteraan van Per Se, en sy kookkuns het altyd op nuanses staatgemaak.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Baie van die nuwe geregte is 'n rede vir almal wat Fung Tu na die vroeë dae afgeskryf het om 'n herbesoek te beplan.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Jason Wagner, Fung Tu ’s se drankheer en hoofbestuurder, het 'n bekostigbare wynlys saamgestel met kriptiese name soos mondeuse en macabeu wat hy met graagte sal dekodeer.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Uitgeharde Spaanse makriel, in elegante skywe gesny wat amper soos klein ansjovis lyk, word bedien met tert knoppies ingelegde hon shimeji -sampioene.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Aspersies, morels en ertjies met ricotta -gnocchi kry 'n bietjie Gorgonzola van doufu ru, gegiste tofu.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Die sjabloon vir die China-kwel is ma po tofu, maar die boontjiekorrel is vervang deur 'n rokerige eiervla wat so glad en syagtig is dat dit byna skei as jou lepel naby kom. Hierna gaan 'n Sichuan -varkvleissous wat jou mond laat neurie en brand, besaai met deursigtige dun yucca -skyfies vir crunch.

Krediet. James Pomerantz vir The New York Times

Dit kon nie baie lekker gewees het vir Jonathan Wu, die sjef en 'n eienaar van Fung Tu nie, toe Mission Chinese Food in Desember feitlik om die draai begin het. Vir die eerste jaar in die sakewêreld, in die hoofwater van Orchardstraat, net langs die oostelike Broadway-kant van Fujianese plekke, was Wu die enigste Asiatiese-Amerikaanse sjef wat Chinese tradisies geplunder het om 'n moderne kombuis van sy eie styl te weef. Toe daag Danny Bowien 'n paar blokke verder op met sy kung pao pastrami en sy Mylar -reënboogmuur en sy "Twin Peaks" gang, en fanboys en fangirls draai waentjies op die sypaadjies.

Natuurlik, in teorie, hoe meer vreugde, 'n stygende gety lig alle bote, ensovoorts, maar Fung Tu was nou in die skaduwee van die enigste hipster-Chinese restaurant waaroor iemand wou praat. Soos 'n vriend wat van albei plekke hou, dit stel, moet daar oomblikke wees wanneer meneer Wu soos Donovan voel in 'Don't Look Back'.

Fung Tu het nie sy eie saak gehelp nie deur in 2013 voorlopig begin te word. 'N Aandete van ongeveer 'n maand hou soveel skelm nie-voorgeregte (sunchokes en sampioene wat gereeld 'n gestoomde broodjie bewoon) as oogopeningende lekkernye (die eierrolletjie varkpens en sappige olywe gevul in 'n fyn gebraaide knoffelblommetjie-crêpe). Sommige vroeë resensies het geval tussen onvoldoende en ongemaklik. Ligaya Mishan, in 'n rubriek in die Hungry City, was meer tevrede met die kos as wat ander kritici was, maar sy het gedink dat sommige geure nooit heeltemal verskyn nie.

Beeld

Die geluid van koppe wat gekrap word, moes na die kombuis gebring het, want meneer Wu het aangepas. Meer as drie maaltye sedert die laat winter het ek selde getwyfel waaroor hy besig was. Wu is 'n tweejarige veteraan van Per Se, en sy kookkuns het altyd op nuanses staatgemaak. Dit gebeur nog steeds, maar nou is die aksente ingevul. As iets veronderstel is om sout of pittig te wees, is dit so. As daar nie sout en speserye op die danskaart is nie, verhoog die groentemark en ander hoofbestanddele op die boeremark. Geregte wat van die begin af heerlik was, soos die eend-gevulde Medjool-dadels wat rook opdoen tot dit soos dadelspek smaak, is nou minstens so goed. Sommige is dalk beter. En baie van die nuwe geregte is 'n rede vir almal wat Fung Tu na die vroeë dae afgeskryf het om 'n herbesoek aan die bokant van die kalender te plaas.

Kyk byvoorbeeld na die China-quiles, wat bedoel is vir 'n brunch, maar in sy pyjama bly tot aandete. Die sjabloon is ma po tofu, maar die boontjiekorrel is vervang deur 'n rokerige eiervla wat so glad en syagtig is dat dit amper skei as jou lepel naby kom. Hierna gaan 'n Sichuan -varkvleissous wat jou mond laat neurie en brand, besaai met deursigtige dun yucca -skyfies vir crunch. Op die openingsmenu is 'n soortgelyke, maar lighartiger varkvleissous oor 'n wit hoop deeglike, flou kluitjies gesny. Die sous op die China-quiles is soveel lekkerder dat jy dit nie 'n evolusie kan noem nie, dit is meer 'n intervensie.

Die Sichuan-tweestap kom weer voor in 'n vinaigrette wat geharde Spaanse makriel aantrek, in elegante skywe gesny wat amper soos klein ansjovis lyk. Met skerp knoppies gepekelde hon shimeji-sampioene, wys meneer Wu dat hy die warm, suur en sout note so skoon en presies soos Jean-Georges Vongerichten kan pluk. Hy kan ook klassieke Europese lentegeure in sy rigting buig en aspersies, morels en ertjies met ricotta -gnocchi gooi wat 'n bietjie Gorgonzola van doufu ru, gefermenteerde tofu ontvang.

Gebraaide sagte skulpdoppies verskyn op die spyskaart toe die lente in 'n rat kom. Hulle brood was te dik, maar meneer Wu het hulle omring met geure wat 'n mosselhark kon laat smaak. Eerstens bestrooi hy dit met ontwaterde tamaties, gedroogde gemmer en gemaalde chili, 'n mengsel wat 'n stapelvoedsel van Indiese kerrie is, maar wat nuut is in poeiervorm. Giste swartbone weerspieël die suur-sout tema van die versnit. Gebakte mossels wil tartaarsous Fung Tu's word gekruid met steranys, verkoolde gemmer en ander geure uit 'n bakkie pho.

Die snack -spyskaart by Fung Tu doen meer as om die tjek te toets, sodat meneer Wu kan uitkom en speel. Daar is skyfies en dip, in die vorm van garnaskyfies, blink met warm olie en 'n sagte, ryk, kwaai-rooi 'nduja. 'N Soet, gekookte mosterdsous was 'n bietjie te intens vir eenvoudige hoendervlerkies, maar die kombinasie van saggemaakte gerookte mossels met ui-ui was so vars en lewendig dat ek graag wou terugneem wat ek oor gerookte mossels by my ouers gesê het. skemerkelkie. Dit beteken nie dat jy nog in die helder is nie, gerookte oesters.

Baie wyne het koppe gestamp met sulke delikate, skuins kookkuns. Sommeliers oorskry Gewürtztraminer vir Chinese kos, terwyl leke geneig is om self te genees met Tsingtao. Jason Wagner, heer van Fung Tu se drank en hoofbestuurder, het beter idees. Sy baie bekostigbare lys is propvol kriptiese name soos mondeuse en macabeu, wat hy met graagte sal dekodeer. Hy is die moeite werd om na te luister as 'n entoesiastiese liefhebber van sjerrie as hy 'n Gran Barquero-amontillado voorstel wat smaak soos geroosterde haselneute wat in karamel gedoop is vir die dun gesnyde gebakte varktjops met gefermenteerde mosterdgroente, 'n klassieke uit Chinatown hier met 'n pittige, stroperige sjerrie. esdoorn soja glans.

Die diens in die begin was 'n bietjie styf gewond vir 'n restaurant tussen Success Hosiery en Yat Sing Trading Inc. vasgemaak in veelvlakkige glaswebbe gemaak deur mnr. Wu se vrou, die juweliersontwerper Jane D'Arensbourg. Die kroeg aan die voorkant bied 'n onbedekte baai waar u kan afkoel met cocktails wat die middel tussen tradisie en uitvinding vind.

Gewoonlik word daar by Fung Tu 'n bietjie nadink oor die grootste finales in Chinese restaurante, nageregte onder meneer Wu en sy sjef, John Matthew Wells, al lyk dit steeds na stiefkinders in die res van die spyskaart. Daar is gebakte broodjies met vrugte, 'n witsjokolademousse, nie te soet nie, met gladde, stewige rabarberskywe en grondboontjiebotter-sjokolade-truffels wat in sesamsaad gerol is.

Toe ek in 2013 vir die eerste keer een van die truffels proe, was dit krytdroog en bitter en het ek na 'n klein happie teruggekeer na sy bord. Soos baie dinge oor Fung Tu, was dit 'n tweede kyk werd.


'N Sjef herwin sy fokus

Danny Bowien kan nie die naam van die hotel in San Francisco onthou nie. Al wat hy onthou, is om in 'n donker kamer te lê, in die bed te lê en na die plafon te staar.

Vir 'n sjef met besige restaurante aan albei kuste is roerlose oomblikke skaars. Maar dit was Oktober 2013, en mnr. Bowien het pas die boodskap ontvang dat Mission Chinese Food, die Lower East Side-paleis van die psychedeliese kombuis uit Sichuan, wat hom in die internasionale kollig geslinger het, deur die gesondheidsdepartement van New York gesluit is vir 'n 'n verskeidenheid sanitêre oortredings, insluitend die teenwoordigheid van muise.

Die nuus, het hy gesê, het hom in 'n toestand van verlamming gelaat. Hy voel oorweldig, verleë en bekommerd oor sy personeel. Hy het geweet dat hy na New York moes vlieg om die krisis die hoof te bied, maar hy het toegewy aan 'n kookgeleentheid in die Bay Area. Hy was nie seker waar om te draai nie.

Toe lui sy telefoon. Aan die ander kant hoor hy 'n stem met 'n bekende Deense aksent. Dit was René Redzepi, die sjef agter Noma in Kopenhagen, waarskynlik die bekendste restaurant ter wêreld. 'En hy was soos:' Sjef, is u gereed? ',' Het mnr. Bowien gesê. '' Hulle kom vir jou. Hulle ruik bloed. Jy is seergemaak, jy is gewond en hulle sal jou kom haal. ”

Dit klink miskien na 'n skrikwekkende (alhoewel profetiese) vorm van troos, maar Bowien kan daaroor glimlag noudat 'n nuwe weergawe van Mission Chinese Food Vrydag op 'n opgeknapte en ruim plek aan die rand van Chinatown geopen is. As die Danny Bowien -terugkeer amptelik aan die gang is, lyk niemand meer verlig daaroor as meneer Bowien self nie.

Aangesien die 32-jarige sjef die eerste sal wees, het die kurwe van die afgelope twee jaar hom gedwing om vinnig groot te word. Hy skei sy weg met alkohol, wat sy spanverligter geword het. 'Ek het soos 'n mal gedrink,' het hy gesê. 'Om nie pret te hê nie. Ek was besig om myself te vernietig. ” Hy het 'n pa geword: Sy vrou, Youngmi Mayer, het ongeveer tien maande gelede geboorte geskenk aan hul seun, Mino.

En nadat hy so gewild was en in aanvraag was dat hy soos die kookkuns se weergawe van Jimmy Fallon gelyk het, stap hy rustig uit die beroemdheidswind en kom terug na waar hy voel: in die kombuis.

'Ek het die hele saak ingesluk,' het hy gesê. 'Orals geleenthede doen, oor die hele wêreld vlieg, nie genoeg in die restaurante wees nie. Aan die einde van die dag word die beste tyd in die restaurante bestee. Dit is wat my hier gekry het. ”

Hy het gesê dat die skerp oproep van sy mentor en vriend in Denemarke-asook verskeie dosisse streng instruksie van 'n ander ouer broer, die sjef David Chang-hom geïnspireer en aangevuur het deur 'n reeks maande waarin dit gevoel het asof die koeël trein van sy loopbaan het 'n stuk puin op die spore getref. 'René het my op die manier afgerig,' het hy gesê. 'Hy het gesê:' Ek wil hê dat u moet weet dat alles OK sal wees, maar u sal dit moet hanteer. Dit gaan goed met jou, maar jy moet net fokus. ''

Beeld

Die fokus is wat meneer Bowien 'n jaar of wat sou spandeer om weer terug te kry. Na 'n sterre debuut in New York-'n James Beard-toekenning vir Rising Star Chef, byna universele lof van sy mede-sjefs en die nuusmedia, waaronder The New York Times (wie se Pete Wells Mission Chinese Food as die beste nuwe restaurant van 2012 gekies het) ) - dit het begin lyk asof sy reputasie as 'n wonderwerker kan ontrafel.

'Eendag het hy net na my gekyk en gesê:' Ek dink ek is getraumatiseer ',' het sy vrou gesê. 'Dit het 'n paar maande geneem voordat hy dit vir my gesê het.'

'N Ruk lank wens meneer Bowien dat hy in die hotelkamer bly skuil het. Hy was besig om 'n Lower East Side taqueria, Mission Cantina, oop te maak, maar hy erken nou dat die hantering van kwessies by die departement van gesondheid hom aandag aftrek en 'n deurslaggewende navorsingsreis na Mexiko oopgemaak het, wat beteken het dat hy Cantina onthul het voordat dit gereed was.

As hy terugkyk, dink hy dat hy dit te veilig met die kos gespeel het, en 'n poging tot egtheid gekies het in plaas daarvan om die kruis-kulturele geurontploffings wat hom bekend gemaak het, op te vuur. 'Ek het nie gedoen wat ons die beste doen nie, en ek het ook al my vertroue verloor,' het hy gesê. Nadat hy by Cantina geëet het, het mnr. Redzepi 'n e -pos aan mnr. Bowien gestuur waarin gesê word dat sy tortillas opgedateer moet word. Resensies was middelmatig.

Wat om hierdie naweek te kook

Sam Sifton het spyskaartvoorstelle vir die naweek. Daar is duisende idees vir wat om te kook, wat op u wag op die New York Times Cooking.

    • In hierdie stadige kookresep vir garnale in die vagevuur ontwikkel die pittige rooipeper en tamatiesous sy diep geure oor ure.
    • Gebruik 'n paar groen blatjang wat in die winkel gekoop is in hierdie vinnige, stewige groen masala-hoender. kan lekker wees vir aandete, en 'n paar bloubessie -muffins vir ontbyt.
    • Vir nagereg, waatlemoen granita? Of 'n pondkoek met gebakte aarbeie en slagroom?
    • En vir Memorial Day self? U weet dat ons baie resepte daarvoor het.

    'Mense het Cantina toegeslaan,' het mnr. Bowien gesê. 'Ek het dit persoonlik opgevat. Ek het nie geweet hoe om dit te hanteer nie. ”

    Mission Chinese Food het weer oopgemaak dae nadat die departement van gesondheid dit gesluit het. Maar weke later het die departement dit weer gesluit, en dit het gesluit gebly. Bowien en sy span het vasgestel dat daar onoorkomelike probleme met die gebou in Orchardstraat is. 'Ek het net gekies om nie die restaurant weer oop te maak nie,' het hy gesê. 'Ons het al die inspeksies geslaag. Tegnies kan die restaurant nog oop wees. ”

    Hy het begin voel dat die beste strategie was om aandag te gee aan die boodskap wat hy kry, en om verder te gaan. 'Ons wou 'n nuwe begin hê,' het hy gesê. 'Ons wou net iets beters doen.' Sy span het later 'n regsgeding teen die verhuurder, Abraham Noy, ingedien en aangevoer dat hy nie die gebou aan die regte standaarde gebring het nie. .

    Ongeag wie reg het, bondgenote was van mening dat mnr Bowien nie uit die probleem kon styg deur 'n beginselstandpunt in te neem nie. 'Wat ek vir hom gesê het, is:' Daar is geen verskoning nie ',' het mnr. Chang gesê. 'As u 'n probleem het en dit is nie 'n daad van God nie, gee niemand om in New York nie. Ek dink nie mense het tyd vir simpatie nie. ”

    Ed Levine, die stigter van die Serious Eats-voedselsite, het die hoofpyn van die gesondheidsdepartement opgejaag as '' 'n kwessie van 'n betreklik onervare sjef-restaurateur wat nie die wankele van restauranteiendom in New York begryp nie '. Hy het bygevoeg: 'Ek dink nie dit gaan iets vorentoe beteken nie. Ek dink nie mense gaan sê: 'O, sy kos is nie veilig nie.' Ek dink mense sien dit waarvoor dit was. "

    As meneer Bowien sedertdien groot geword het, so ook Mission Chinese. 'Ek het net gedink Danny moet sy kos verhoog,' het mnr. Chang gesê, 'en hy sal die geleentheid kry met hierdie restaurant.'

    Die oorspronklike restaurant het 'n biervat op die vloer, 'n eindelose lyn by die deur uit en die beknopte, bloeiende, geïmproviseerde gevoel van 'n Flaming Lips-album-vrystellingspartytjie ('n byeenkoms waarna Bowien se band eintlik in 'n vorige lewe in Oklahoma opgetree het) ). Dit lyk asof die dekor kitsch en indie-rock saamneem in 'n wok met 'n paar ekstra vuis Sichuan-peperkorrels. "Jy voel asof jy in 'n slegte Chinese restaurant is, maar jy is in 'n baie goeie Chinese restaurant," het die sjef Wylie Dufresne gesê.

    Maar die nuwe ruimte op 171 East Broadway, waarin die restaurant Rosette gehuisves is, is meer beskaafd. Met gesellige bankette, groot ronde tafels toegerus met lui susans, 'n privaat eetkamer in Mylar wat lyk soos iets uit Andy Warhol se fabriek en twee elegante skemerkelkies, voel dit soos 'n luukse Chinese banketsaal vir dieselfde gehoor wat na Carbone dreun. . Dit is die Mission Chinese waarheen u u ouers kan bring.

    Of jou kinders. In ooreenstemming met die banketstyl-atmosfeer, is die nuwe spyskaart groot. Kliënte wat een van sy 130 sitplekke kry, kan à la carte bestel, maar hulle kan ook 'n fees kies volgens 'n Asiatiese-Rabelaise smorgbord ($ 69 vir die kleiner verspreiding en $ 99 vir die volle monty).

    Die ruimte het selfs 'n pizza -oond. Bowien, sy uitvoerende sjef, Angela Dimayuga, en hul bemanning gebruik dit om kaas-en-tamatiesous pizza te maak, sowel as sagte naan-styl brood wat in kefir botter en karringmelk gegrawe kan word en saamgemaak kan word, indien verlang. , met 'n porsie kaviaar. (Die deeg is ontwikkel deur Chad Robertson, die meel-en-water-towenaar van Tartine Bakery in San Francisco.)

    Daar is 'n 'bedelaar -eend', gevul met taai rys en ginseng, toegedraai in 'n lotusblaar, gebak in klei en met 'n hamer aan die tafel gebars. Daar is 'n rou kroeg. Daar is pittige hoendervlerkies en grondboonnoedels met inktvis-ink met “verdowende olie” en baie variasies op die tema van gebraaide rys (kreef, sout kabeljou, beesvleis), asook prima-rib wat aan tafel gesny is van ‘n swerf in Lawry-styl wa.

    'U sou nie veel hiervan in enige Chinese restaurant sien nie,' het mnr. Bowien gesê. 'Waarom eet ons 'n pizza in 'n houtoond hier? Want dit is waarvan ons regtig hou. ”

    Op 'n onlangse Donderdagoggend was hy geneig om worsbroodjies en eiers op 'n rooster op Mission Cantina te braai. Dit is waar u hom deesdae gewoonlik kan vind: by 'n stoof of 'n wok en kook wat hy ook al vind. En getrou aan die gemengde gees van die heer Bowien se kookkuns, het Mission Cantina ontwikkel tot 'n Mexikaanse restaurant wat toevallig elke oggend 'n Viëtnamese gereg bedien.

    Bowien verwys na die ontbyt as ''n ekstra inkomstestroom', maar dit verteenwoordig ook 'n terugkeer na sy wortels as 'n soeker na nuwe geure in Kalifornië. Toe mnr. Bowien en sy sakevennoot, Anthony Myint, die oorspronklike Mission Chinese Food in San Francisco opdroom, sou 'n tipiese dagvoedsel Vietnamees in die oggend en Mexikaans van die middag af behels.

    'N Terapeut kan daarop wys dat Bowien die dieet herskep het wat hom deur sy vroeë suksesse aangedryf het. Op 'n werksdag in New York word hy soggens ontbytbroodjies in 'n banh-mi-styl reggemaak, vroegmiddag na tacos oorgeskakel en dan na Mission Chinese gegaan om kreefgebraaide rys en drie keer gekookte spek op te sweep. Alhoewel hy nog nooit deeglik was nie, lyk meneer Bowien deesdae so maer terwyl hy met 'n bofbalpet en Stan Smith -tennisskoene rits, dat hy hom as 'n tiener -skate -punk kan verwar. 'Ek werk sewe dae per week van 07:00 tot 02:00,' het hy gesê. "En ek is 'n pa."

    Om vader te word, het sy prioriteite herkalibreer, het hy gesê. (Eerstens braak hy nie meer elke oggend as gevolg van die angs nie.) 'Dit maak jou grond, dit sentreer jou, dit maak alles OK,' het hy gesê. 'U het dit - u het u kind. Sê ons dat ons nou 'n slegte resensie kry? Ek gee nie regtig om nie. ”

    Hy gee egter om om die tortillas reg te kry. Die eerste ding wat hy elke oggend eet, terwyl hy langs die rooster by Mission Cantina sit, is 'n tortilla wat pas ingedruk en met guacamole besmeer is. Hy toets hulle graag. "Maak Cantina die beste tortilla's in New York?" vra hy. "Ek dink so. Of ons sal. ”

    Hy weet nou baie meer oor tortillas, net soos hy baie meer weet oor die stad se sanitêre regulasies en die gevare om jouself te dun te versprei. 'Deur al hierdie teëspoed te gaan, deur al hierdie probleme te gaan, is dit wat u definieer,' het hy gesê. 'Ek is net dankbaar dat ek kook.'


    Die geregte van 2012 wat op hul eie verblind het

    Toe die Spotted Pig agt jaar gelede geopen is, het dit 'n gastropub -eetkamer en 'n kontemporêre Britse kombuisgevoel in New York bekendgestel, wat dit een van die invloedrykste restaurante van die afgelope dekade gemaak het. Calliope het die kans om iets soortgelyks vir die bistronomie -beweging te doen, onder leiding van Paryse sjefs wat nuwe lewe in die bistro -kombuis geblaas het. Vir die eienaars en gesamentlike sjefs van Calliope, Ginevra Iverson en haar man, Eric Korsch, beteken dit dat die clichés weggegooi word en Franse geregte herleef so lank uit die styl dat dit weer vars lyk. Hierdie herfs vind u pittige konynniere op roosterbrood met Cognac -sous. Verlede week het die banketbakker 'n foto van geplukte houtkrane op die snyplank, net daar in die East Village, getwiet. 84 East Fourth Street (Second Avenue), East Village (212) 260-8484.

    Carlo Mirarchi se geskenk as sjef is om bestanddele te vind wat hul uitstekende kwaliteit byna uitstraal, en dit dan te kook (of nie te kook nie) op 'n manier wat hul uitnemendheid sagkens versterk. Nuwe aartappels en patats met 'n skeut karringmelk het net soveel teenwoordigheid as die ryk gemarmerde en stadig gebraaide lam met duidelike kruisementjellie. Slegs 60 mense per week word bedien by die 12 leerstoele wat langs 'n porseleintoonbank staan, wat hierdie proelokaal in Bushwick, Brooklyn, een van die mees eksklusiewe restaurante in die stad maak. Ek sou miskien gelukkiger gewees het met 'n effens vinniger en goedkoper maaltyd ($ 180 per persoon voor belasting, fooi of drankies), maar by hoeveel ander restaurante kan jy kaviaar skep terwyl jy na 'n vintage Fleetwood Mac LP ​​luister? 261 Moore Street (Bogart Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn (646) 703-2715.

    Wat om hierdie naweek te kook

    Sam Sifton het spyskaartvoorstelle vir die naweek. Daar is duisende idees vir wat om te kook, wat op u wag op die New York Times Cooking.

      • In hierdie stadige kookresep vir garnale in die vagevuur ontwikkel die pittige rooipeper en tamatiesous sy diep geure oor ure.
      • Gebruik 'n paar groen blatjang wat in die winkel gekoop is in hierdie vinnige, stewige groen masala-hoender. kan lekker wees vir aandete, en 'n paar bloubessie -muffins vir ontbyt.
      • Vir nagereg, waatlemoen granita? Of 'n pondkoek met gebakte aarbeie en slagroom?
      • En vir Memorial Day self? U weet dat ons baie resepte daarvoor het.

      La Vara se spyskaart is 'n huldeblyk aan die afdruk van Jode en Arabiere in die kombuise van Spanje. Wat 'n esoteriese geskiedenisles kon gewees het, het 'n vars blik op 'n kookkuns gebied wat Amerikaners pas begin verstaan ​​het. Sonder voetnote weet u miskien nie dat hoenderhakspiesies wat met koljander gevryf is, van die Arabiese kant van die stamboom kom nie, en die sagte amandelkoek genaamd Torta di Santiago van die Joodse kant. U smaak sal egter 'n groep bestanddele uit die Midde -Ooste opneem, soos rys, aubergines, komyn en saffraan, en binnekort sien u allerhande Spaanse kosse in 'n ander lig. Clintonstraat 268 (Verandah Place), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (718) 422-0065.

      Michael Toscano het weelderige, uitbundige Italiaanse kos gemaak toe hy by Manzo in Eataly was. Om dit te geniet, moes u egter in afskortings sit wat baie kort voor die plafon gestop het en 'n uitsig bied oor 'n vleuelstoel, gestoffeer soos die vlag van Italië. Mnr. Toscano het uiteindelik 'n restaurant gekry wat voldoen aan sy kookkuns saam met Perla, 'n rooi-banket-gevoerde kuil wat soos '21' voel vir mense jonger as 40. Soos in Manzo, word beesvleis opvallend in die houtoond verkool vir 'n ribbetjie met twee porsies, of gekap en rou vir 'n gesofistikeerde tartaar. En daar is foie gras, geskeer oor 'n eend ragù of gesmelt in die sous vir geroosterde marmot. Selfs die meer ingehoue ​​items het sterk getuig dat Toscano 'n sjef is wat tot sy reg gekom het. 24 Minetta Lane (Avenue of the Americas), Greenwich Village (212) 933-1824.

      Selfs geharde ontdekkingsreisigers van die Thaise restaurante in die stad sal beslis opwindende nuwe geure by Pok Pok Ny ontdek. 'N Oorgeplante weergawe van Pok Pok in Portland, Ore., Hierdie onstuimige klein mengsel wat na 'n onbeduidende stuk Brooklyn -waterfront kyk, probeer om die kookkuns van Noord -Thailand weer te gee. Dit beteken baie varkvleis en baie gegrilde kos, dikwels beide tegelyk, soos in die Chiang Mai-wors wat met galangal geur bedien word, met 'n verskeidenheid groente en 'n betowerende groen chili-pasta. Dit beteken ook vars kruie wat selde in hierdie dele voorkom, soos die groen blare wat jy in katvis -lap vou. 127 Columbia Street (Kane Street), Columbia Street Waterfront District, Brooklyn (718) 923-9232.


      Deel Alle deelopsies vir: Pete Wells gee Cosme Santina drie sterre en Dirty French Beide word beoordeel

      Gister het Ryan Sutton drie sterre aan Nick Kim en Jimmy Lau se nuwe sushi -restaurant, Shuko, gegee. Hier is 'n opsomming van die res van die restaurantresensies van hierdie week.

      Pete Wells is behoorlik beïndruk deur Enrique Olvera se Mexikaanse hotspot, Cosme: 'Kry iets soos die gebraaide varkvel, so groot en bruin en oop soos 'n vanger -want, bedek met gesnyde radyse en avokado's. Dit klink nie veel nie, maar dit is sensasioneel. So is die eend carnitas, stadig in die vleis se eie vet gesmoor met oranje en Coca-Cola. "Hy gee dit drie sterre. [NYT]

      Joshua David Stein kyk vroeg na Santina, die nuutste restaurant van die Torrisi -seuns. Hy is beïndruk: 'Die broccoli en pecorino rys ($ 15). lyk beslis soos 'n risotto, maar maak nie 'n sement wat 'n mens se maag maak nie. (Die truuk is in deeglik gewaste tamaki -goue rys, 'n slim pad uit die omakase -wêreld.) Skaap se melkvulde tortellini sorrentina ($ 16), een van die vyf pasta, dryf amper in 'n aangename waterige tamatiesous. "Vier sterre. [NYO]

      Stan Sagner hou van die kos by Dirty French, maar is nie 'n fan van die toneel nie: 'Al Torrisi en Bertinetti se werk word ondermyn deur 'n out-of-control eetkamer wat nader aan die 6 -trein tydens spitstyd as 'n ontspannende eetplek. Om af en toe 'n handsak te gooi, is soms die prys wat jy betaal om by 'n warm restaurant te eet - maar niemand moet ooit 'n ander se soom in sy huis hê nie. "Twee sterre. [NYDN]

      Zachary Feldman kyk na Florian, Shelley Fireman se nuwe Italiaanse restaurant in Midtown: "'n Massiewe osso buco lasagne kom met 'n murgbeen so groot om jou arm in die middel kruie-ryk kalfsvleispasta. Deelbaar en slegs $ 24, dit is 'n onmiskenbare steel. Daar is 'n kreefpizza, maar 'n beter keuse is thy massiewe calzone, 'n monster van Frankenstein gevul met geroomde spinasie en artisjokke waarvan die buitenste rand besaai is met gebraaide artisjokke in Romeinse styl. "[VV]

      Adam Platt beoordeel Cosme ook, en hy hou van die kos, maar hy is bekommerd oor die diens: 'Die arme siele wat skouers in die swak ligte kroongebied stamp, kan beswaar maak teen die betaling van $ 17 vir 'n enkelma, nie-baie groot uni tostada om saam met hul margaritas te gaan. As u egter 'n sitplek in die eetkamer gekry het, kan u sien dat die blou mielies in die genoemde tostada gemaal is tot 'n buitengewone poeieragtige ligtheid en dat die uni vernuftig vermeng is met stukke avokado en skaars sigbare stukkies beenmurg. "Drie sterre. [NYM]

      DIE ANDERS: Amelia Lester hou die beste van die klein geregte by Cosme. Ligaya Mishan eet Filipynse kos in Elmhurst by Sariling Atin. Gael Greene verklaar Marta haar nuwe gunsteling pizza -plek.

      THE BLOGS: Andrew Steinthal says Mission Chinese Food is better than ever, Chekmark Eats likes the Mexican food at the Black Ant, NY Journal wishes Bar Primi offered more entrees, The Food Doc chronicles a Super Bowl Sunday meal at Momofuku Ko, Restaurant Girl files on the Goa Taco pop-up, Chopsticks and Marrow loves the fish tacos at La Esquina del Camaron Mexicano, and NYC Foodie thinks Kappo Masa deserves more than the zero stars Pete Wells gave it.


      Inhoud

      Fieri was born Guy Ramsay Ferry on January 22, 1968, [8] in Columbus, Ohio, [13] the son of Penelope Anne (née Price) and Lewis James Ferry. He grew up in Ferndale in rural Humboldt County, California. During high school, he was a foreign exchange student in France, where he developed his interest in food and cooking. [13]

      Fieri began his association with food in grade school in Ferndale, by selling pretzels from his "Awesome Pretzel" cart and washing dishes to finance his trip to France to study. [14] On his return to the United States, he worked at the restaurant at the Red Lion Inn in Eureka, California, until he went to Las Vegas for college. [14] Fieri attended the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, and graduated with a Bachelor of Science in Hotel Management in 1990. [15] [16] Soon after graduation, he went to work for Stouffer's, as manager of a Long Beach, California, restaurant called Parker's Lighthouse. [12] After three years in southern California, he became district manager of Louise's Trattoria, managing six locations along with recruiting and training for the restaurants.

      Restaurante

      In late 1996, Fieri and business partner Steve Gruber opened Johnny Garlic's, a "California Pasta Grill" in Santa Rosa, California. A second location opened in Windsor in 1999, a third in Petaluma in 2000 or 2001 (since closed), and a fourth in Roseville in late 2008. Subsequently, they developed Tex Wasabi's (barbecue and sushi) in 2003 in Santa Rosa, adding a second location in Sacramento's Arden-Arcade area in 2007 (which was rebranded as Johnny Garlic's, and then subsequently closed). An additional Johnny Garlic's was opened in Dublin, California, in 2011.

      Fieri's first New York City restaurant, Guy's American Kitchen and Bar, opened in 2012 to brutal New York Times coverage by Pete Wells that Larry Olmsted of Forbes called "the most scathing review in the history of the New York Times", and "likely the most widely read restaurant review ever." Fieri, for his part, accused Wells, the nation's highest profile reviewer, of using Fieri's fame as a platform for advancing his own prestige. [17] [18] The restaurant's location in the highly trafficked Times Square enabled it to appear on Restaurant Business's list of the top 100 independent restaurants as ranked by sales for four years in a row. It closed at the end of 2017. [19]

      In 2011, Fieri partnered with Carnival Cruise lines to create Guy's Burger Joint to sell Fieri's burgers fleet-wide. As of October 2017, there were 19 restaurants on Carnival's cruise ships, including some serving beer-and-BBQ, Guy's Pig & Anchor Smokehouse Brewhouse. [20] [21]

      In April 2014, Guy Fieri's Vegas Kitchen and Bar opened in Las Vegas. [22] In 2015, Guy Fieri's Baltimore Kitchen & Bar opened in Baltimore's Horseshoe Casino. [23] In 2018, Fieri collaborated with Planet Hollywood founder Robert Earl to open fast-food chicken sandwich shop Chicken Guy! at Disney Springs in Walt Disney World. [24]

      Television

      After winning the second season of The Next Food Network Star [25] on April 23, 2006, Fieri was awarded a six-episode commitment for his own cooking show on Food Network. Guy's Big Bite premiered on June 25, 2006 with the most recent episode airing on November 16, 2016. [26]

      Diners, inskrywings en duike, his second series, premiered in April 2007 (a one-hour special aired in November 2006), with Fieri traveling the country visiting local eateries. Die New York Times called the series "not a cooking show as much as a carefully engineered reality show". [12] Ultimate Recipe Showdown, co-hosted with Marc Summers, debuted on February 17, 2008, and aired for three seasons. On September 14, 2008, Guy Off the Hook debuted on Food Network. This special studio audience show aired through the end of 2008, but the extra cost of staging an audience show did not result in a ratings bump and the concept was discontinued. For Thanksgiving 2008, Fieri hosted a one-hour special titled Guy's Family Feast. He used the "Guy Off the Hook" set for the special, which was broadcast live, on November 28, 2008. Fieri appeared on other Food Network programs such as Dinner: Impossible in 2007 and 2009, Paula's Party, Ace of Cakes, en Die beste ding wat ek ooit geëet het.

      In December 2009, NBC named Fieri as the host of the game show Minute to Win It, which premiered in March 2010 and aired for two seasons. [27] On May 13, 2012, NBC announced that the game show would not be renewed for a third season, citing high production costs and low ratings.

      In January 2012, Fieri was one of the two team captains (along with Rachael Ray) in the Food Network reality series Rachael vs. Guy: Celebrity Cook-Off. [29] A second season of Rachael vs. Guy: Celebrity Cook-Off began airing on Food Network on January 6, 2013. A chef challenge show, Guy's Grocery Games, started on October 27, 2013, on the Food Network. It features four cooks who battle through three rounds, and are judged by three judges. [30]

      His latest series, Guy's Family Road Trip, was chosen as the 2017 lead-out show from season 13 of Food Network Star. It previewed on August 13 of that year.

      Advertising

      Fieri appeared in promotions for Flowmaster, a California-based auto exhaust parts manufacturer. [31] In 2008 and 2009, he was the spokesperson for T.G.I. Friday's. [32] In 2010, he appeared in a commercial for Aflac named "Spicy". [33]

      Other projects

      In 2009, Fieri began touring with the Guy Fieri Roadshow, a multi-state food tour that featured some of his fellow Food Network personalities. [34] [35] He also appeared in regional Food Network events, such as the 2012 Atlantic City Food and Wine Festival [36] and the 2012 South Beach Food and Wine Festival, where he officiated at 101 gay weddings. [37]

      In 2015, Fieri officiated at the wedding of celebrity chef Art Smith at Miami Beach. The wedding, which included over two dozen same-sex couples, was held to celebrate Florida's Supreme Court lifting the state ban on same-sex marriage. [38]

      Fieri owns a vineyard and sells his wine under the label Hunt & Ryde, named after his sons Hunter and Ryder. [39]

      In response to the COVID-19 pandemic's effect on the restaurant industry in 2020, Fieri teamed up with the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation to raise money for unemployed restaurant workers through newly created Restaurant Employee Relief Fund. In under two months over US$20 million was raised. [40] [41] [42] [43]

      Fieri met his wife Lori when she came into a restaurant he was managing in Long Beach, California. [20] The couple married in 1995. [9] When Fieri got married, he changed his surname from Ferry to Fieri as an ode to his paternal grandfather, Giuseppe Fieri, an Italian immigrant who had Anglicized his surname to Ferry upon his arrival in the United States. [44] They live in Santa Rosa, California, with their sons, Hunter and Ryder. [9]

      He collects classic American cars, including a 1971 Chevrolet Chevelle, a 1968 Pontiac Firebird, a 1976 Jeep CJ-5, a 1969 Chevrolet Impala SS, and a 1967 Chevrolet C10 pickup. [13]

      Film
      Jaar Titel Role Notas
      2014 I Am Evel Knievel Himself
      The Interview Himself
      Television
      Jaar Titel Role Notas
      2006 The Next Food Network Star Himself Contestant
      Season 2
      2006–2016 Guy's Big Bite Himself/host
      2007 Paula's Party Himself Episode dated May 18, 2007
      All-Star Holiday Dishes Himself
      2007–present Diners, inskrywings en duike Himself/host
      2007–2009 Dear Food Network Himself/host 5 episodes
      2007–2009 Dinner: Impossible Himself Season 2 episode 8: "Camp Cookoff: Robert vs. Guy"
      Season 7 episode 13: "Robert and Guy's Holiday Havoc"
      2008 Phineas & Ferb Pizza Guy Voice
      Season 3 episode 27: "Sleepwalk Surprise/Sci-Fi Pie Fly"
      2008–2010 Ultimate Recipe Showdown Himself/co-host
      2009 HGTV Showdown Himself Guest consultant
      Season 3 episode 4: "Clash of the Kitchens"
      Garage Mahal Himself Season 1 episode 13: "Guy Fieri's Garage"
      2009–2011 Die beste ding wat ek ooit geëet het Himself 16 episodes
      2010 Ace of Cakes Himself Season 9 episode 1: "100 Episodes of Cake"
      2010–2011 Minute to Win It Himself/host
      2011 Guy Fieri's Rock 'n Road Show Himself
      Bitchin' Kitchen Himself Season 2 episode 9: "Xmas Special"
      Take Two with Phineas and Ferb Himself Season 2 episode 10: "Guy Fieri"
      Ridiculousness Himself Season 4 episode 18: "Guy Fieri"
      2011–2012 The Best Thing I Ever Made Himself 4 episodes
      2012 Restaurant: onmoontlik Himself/Groomsman Season 4: "Wedding Impossible"
      Guy Fieri's Family Reunion Himself
      2012–2014 Rachael vs. Guy: Celebrity Cook-Off Himself/co-host/mentor
      2013 Guy's Family Cruise Himself
      2013–present Guy's Grocery Games Himself/host Executive producer
      2013–2014 Rachael vs. Guy: Kids Cook-Off Himself/co-host/mentor
      2015 I Get That a Lot Himself Season 1 episode 6: "Rita Ora, Guy Fieri, Kristin Chenoweth, Cody Simpson, Alex Trebek, Aaron Rodgers"
      2015–2016 Guilty Pleasures Himself 4 episodes
      2016 Guy & Hunter's European Vacation Himself Executive producer
      2017 Guy's Family Road Trip Himself
      Super Southern Eats Himself Executive producer
      On Your Marc Himself Post-production
      2018 Impractical Jokers Himself (Cameo) Episode: Like A Boss
      Video games
      Jaar Titel Role Notas
      2011 Minute to Win It Himself

      Fieri is the author or co-author of several cookbooks which together were New York Times bestsellers for a total of over 33 weeks. [45] [46]


      Delectable Pizza, Right at Home

      Making pizza at home isn’t as common as it should be. While the wood-fired ovens at Coal Fired Pizza, Figidini, and Flatbread are impossible to perfectly replicate in your oven, that doesn’t mean your pizzas can’t be delicious. To make truly great pizza at home there’s a lot of room to improvise, but there are a few ways to make your pizza a cut above.

      1. Start with Good Ingredients

      Starting off with great ingredients is the key to improving any simple dish. You don’t need anything fancy, but using fresh ingredients will only make your pizza that much more delectable. I used R.I. Mushroom Co. maitakes as my hefty topping of choice.

      2. Swap Your Sauce

      While some may say pizza isn’t pizza without tomato sauce, I replaced it with another vegetable spread. Intended as a topping for bruschetta, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s squash recipe is downright addictive. While the squash roasts, make an onion-jam by deeply caramelizing onions before showering them with equal parts apple cider vinegar and maple syrup. Lastly, mash the squash with the onions and prepare to never cook squash any other way.

      3. Conquer the Crust

      I’ve yet to make dough from scratch, which would be ideal, but I have become a fan of using fresh dough. By choosing fresh over pre-baked, your crust won’t dry out, but will instead be moist and chewy. I recommend Seven Stars Bakery’s Pizza Dough.

      4. Crank the Heat

      Raising your oven’s temperature as high as it can go mimics the effect that wood-fired ovens have. It will undoubtedly speed up the cooking time, but more importantly it will crisp up all of your toppings and cook your crust through at the same time. Is that a golden-brown pizza you’re staring at? Because you cooked it in a 500 degrees oven, yes.

      5. Keep it Simple…Sort of

      You don’t need to pour your entire fridge onto one pizza, no matter how tempting. Throwing ingredient after ingredient onto your pie will end badly unevenly cooked dough, too many flavors, difficult to eat, etc. I used mushrooms, squash-onion mash, a handful of bacon, and some fresh mozzarella that I ripped in chunks you would expect to see atop a margherita pizza.

      If you have fresh dough, quality ingredients, and a blazing hot oven, not much can go wrong, other than the possibilty of mind-bendingly good pizza fatigue. So start your shopping list, get your oven heating, and start twirling that dough.


      After NYT pans Locol, Jonathan Gold wonders if some restaurants are unreviewable

      Tabitha O’Neal, left, takes a photo of her mother Delores, center, with Chef Roy Choi before dining at LocoL in Watts.

      (Christina House / For The Times)

      A business sign for LocoL is being installed.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Some of the menu items in the Yotchays section of the menu at LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Daniel Patterson chats with Roy Choi in one of the food prep areas of LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      The barbecue turkey burger from LocoL. The recipe for the bun is from Tartine baker Chad Robertson.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Chef Roy Choi, who is opening LocoL, a new fast food restaurant with chef Daniel Patterson.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Polaroids hang on the wall at LocoL, a new fast food restaurant by well-known chefs Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Workers at LocoL prep food during a soft opening.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      The Messy Beef Chili Bowl available at LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Richard Tapia, 29, and his wife, Liliana Gonzalez, 29, of Los Angeles, peek through screen windows while they wait in line for a free meal at LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      One of the desserts available at LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Pipita Alcala, of Santa Monica, and Jeff Rogers, of Los Angeles, get ready to try the food at LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      Photographs by Evidence, of Dilated Peoples, adorn the walls of LocoL.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      LocoL opens its doors for business in the Watts area of Los Angeles on Monday.

      (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

      If you’ve been paying attention to food media this last week, you’ve probably heard a lot about Pete Wells’ zero-star review of Locol in the New York Times last Wednesday, in which he compared the hamburger to something he’d once eaten at Boy Scout camp. The review was of the Oakland location, not of the original restaurant in Watts, but the food community, both in Los Angeles and around the world, seemed to take the review personally.

      Protests sprang up on the usual gastroblogs. Chefs David Chang and Rene Redzepi expressed their dissatisfaction via subtweet. Michael Krikorian, who knew some of the Watts Locol employees from his days as a gang reporter (and is not incidentally the longtime boyfriend of Mozza’s Nancy Silverton), wrote an impassioned op-ed for this newspaper. Kogi auteur Roy Choi, who co-founded Locol with San Francisco chef Daniel Patterson, posted a shirtless, scowling screenshot from Tupac’s “I Ain’t Mad at Cha’’ video to Instagram, and the symbolism was lost on no one.

      Wells is no stranger to controversy – his pan of Thomas Keller’s Per Se split the food world last summer – but this seemed different. Per Se is a restaurant built around a $325 tasting menu. At Locol, which Choi and Patterson designed to bring fresh, healthy, inexpensive cooking to the kinds of neighborhoods sometimes referred to as “food deserts,’’ you can feed a dozen people for the cost of Per Se’s Wagyu supplement alone.

      The question wasn’t how Locol’s $5 Fried Chicken Burg might compare to the vastly better $9 fried chicken sandwiches at Night + Market Song or Oakland’s own Bakesale Betty. It was why the New York Times was using its main restaurant column to gripe about bland turkey chili in an Oakland burger stand whose mandate was to feed a community with limited access to good, nutritious food.

      Wells is a fine writer and an unimpeachable critic. If he said the grain-enriched hamburger patty was dry, the patty was dry.

      And given: The Watts original is in a neighborhood with few alternatives the Oakland restaurant, which I haven’t visited, is on a gentrifying block near downtown. Locol’s mission may be less apparent when its dining area is within a few steps of taquerias and an Umami Burger. Context is important: I’m not sure what I would think of the Watts restaurant if it were located within a football’s toss of a decent brasserie.

      But are certain restaurants unreviewable? It depends on the critic. (Have I reviewed Locol? I have not.) Wells might have concentrated on more conventional restaurants like Camino or Commis on his trip to Oakland, but in some ways, Locol is indeed too important to ignore.

      I wrote a front-page story on Locol’s opening last January. In Food & Wine the same month, Kate Krader wrote “Locol is the Best New Restaurant of 2016.” Stories on the restaurant appeared everywhere from Rolling Stone to the Wall Street Journal to Daily Coffee News.

      Currently Locol sits at 58 on the 101 Best Restaurants list: The loose, handmade cooking reminded me more of the lunch counters that dotted South Los Angeles when I was growing up in the area than it did anything I’ve ever picked up at a drive-thru window. It is one of the places, along with Guelaguetza and Mariscos Jalisco, where I try to take friends visiting from out of town.

      The prospect of a baron of multicultural deliciousness like Choi joining forces with the Michelin-starred modernism of Patterson is intriguing in foodie terms alone. But while you might imagine that the involvement from high-profile chefs would result in a slick product, the food is closer to casual home cooking, inspired by its neighborhood rather than imposing itself on it.

      Locol serves neither the coffee-roasted carrots nor the asparagus with buttermilk snow Patterson made when he ran the kitchen at Coi nor the blackjack quesadillas at Kogi and Chubby Pork Belly bowls for which Choi is known at his Chinatown restaurant Chego. The food is less an experiment in culinary creativity than it is an attempt to fashion sustainable, lower-fat, affordable versions of dishes already popular in the area it serves: burgers, pizza, chili and salad. The restaurant is staffed by people who live in the neighborhood, very few of whom worked in food service before Locol hired them. Locol is less a replacement for a fast-food restaurant than a better version of it, a place with a funky but high-design vibe, a bowl of rice and greens for the price of a bag of Cheetos. Choi is fond of calling Locol a revolution.

      “It’s cool,’’ Wells messaged me Thursday. “But I tell you, if they want to start a revolution, they’ve got to do better than what they’re serving in Oakland.’’

      So should Locol fall in the same category as Homeboy Bakery or Venice’s Bread and Roses Café, or should it be criticized because it fails to come up to the standards of Kogi or Coi? It’s a difficult question. In my opinion, Wells may not have been wrong, but he was ungenerous.


      The 40 Most Important Restaurants of the Decade

      When people look back on this arbitrary demarcation of years, these will be the restaurants that bring time-specific memories flooding back.

      Some people like to argue that decades are nothing more than arbitrary demarcations of time. But if I were to ask you to free-associate, and if I were to say the Fifties, the Sixties, the Seventies, the Eighties, the Nineties, et cetera, certain songs and movie scenes and sartorial flourishes would arise in your mind for each one.

      No one would confuse the 1950s with the 1970s, except maybe in the case of Gelukkige dae. No one would confuse the 1970s with the 1990s, except maybe in the case of the Weezer video for &ldquoBuddy Holly&rdquo in which the band members were inserted into a scene from Gelukkige dae. Decades have signature styles and moments. Some great hand of American culture does seem to hit reset every ten years.

      So what will we someday see as the emblematic flourishes of the past 10 years, when we think about going out to eat? &ldquoWhat the hell WAS the past decade in restaurants all about?&rdquo my friend Pete Wells, the restaurant critic of Die New York Times, tweeted earlier this month, apparently ricocheting off an earlier tweet of my own. (After all, eating out over the past decade has come down to talking about eating out, whether on Twitter or Instagram or Foursquare or Yelp.) Here is what I tweeted back off the top of my head:

      I have been covering the world of food for most of this decade, but even I&rsquom hard-pressed, upon first glance, to figure out what that banchan spread of words adds up to. Nevertheless, it&rsquos pretty obvious that the past decade brought about the fulfillment of a revolution that got started in the decade that preceded it.

      In the first 10 years of the 21st century, American chefs began to unravel the Eurocentric white-tablecloth formalities that had dominated fine dining for much of the 20th. David Chang started out with a noodle shop in Manhattan&rsquos East Village in 2004. In the Brooklyn neighborhood of Bushwick, a ramshackle pizza joint called Roberta&rsquos opened in 2008 and pulsed with the energy of a new movement. Out in Los Angeles, Roy Choi changed the game with a taco truck.

      In this decade, the old way of doing things seemed even more out of touch than usual.

      In this decade, the idea that eating out didn&rsquot have to be fancy gathered steam and gradually became the dominant way of doing things. The castle came down. We lost some of the writers and thinkers who had helped charge the gates (Anthony Bourdain, Jonathan Gold, Besoek&rsquos own Joshua Ozersky), but their vision of a more democratic and more inclusive approach finally really took root. Political currents amplified those changes. As the Obama administration gave way to the Trump administration, and as the climate crisis intensified, and as movements such as #BlackLivesMatter and #MeToo gained momentum, the old way of doing things seemed even more out of touch than usual.

      Going vegan and drinking natural wine became, more than ever, expressions of belief&mdashpurpose, even. People want to eat and drink not only what&rsquos better for their bodies but what appears to be better for the planet. (Even established restaurants have by now made room on their wine lists for the natural gang. Even steakhouses offer menu options for vegans.) Only a clueless reactionary would fail to notice the passion and urgency of restaurants run by women, immigrants, LGBTQ people, and people of color&mdashrestaurants like Nyum Bai in Oakland and Seven Reasons in Washington, D.C. and JuneBaby in Seattle and Via Carota in New York. In a time of divisive rhetoric, their stories&mdashand recipes&mdashprovided an invaluable counterpoint. Cooking served as both a commentary on the times and a refuge from the tumult, just as music had in the Sixties.

      Sure, we&rsquove seen plenty of restaurants (many terrific) that have paid homage to the over-fetishized Mad Men era as well as to older French traditions&mdashLe Coucou and Frenchette in New York, Pasjoli in Los Angeles, Petit Crenn and Bar Crenn in San Francisco, the rebooted Grand Café in Minneapolis. But I&rsquod argue that those are restaurants (á la Gelukkige dae) that exist as a commentary on a previous time, as opposed to the time they happen to occupy. (Or, as in the case of the Pastis resurrection in Manhattan&rsquos Meatpacking District, they&rsquore like the Weezer video, layering one smear of nostalgia on top of another. Let&rsquos rename it the Metapacking District.)

      Are the restaurants we list below (after a few days of wrangling between me and my colleagues Sarah Rense and Kevin Sintumuang) the &ldquobest&rdquo restaurants of this maddeningly nameless decade? Some are. But that&rsquos not our point. Our point is that when people look back on this arbitrary demarcation of years, these will be the restaurants that bring time-specific memories flooding back.

      You have your own favorites, we&rsquore sure, and we want to hear about them.

      AtomixNew York2018-present

      Korean food adapted to a tasting menu format that leaves you feeling exhilarated, as if you've just tasted the future.

      Bad SaintWashington D.C.2015-present

      The tiny, 24-seat restaurant with neighborhood vibes helped bring Filipino cuisine way beyond the staples you know.

      BenuSan Francisco2010-present

      A tasting menu is never boring if Corey Lee is at the helm. During a decade when careful technique sometimes seemed to be getting tossed out the window, Lee located the perfect balance between passion and precision.

      CanardPortland, Oregon2018-present

      You can get oysters and a burger for breakfast, you can get foie gras dumplings and fried chicken wings for dinner. It&rsquos your decade, so do what you want.

      Catbird SeatNashville2011-present

      Several chefs have been at the helm of this restaurant with 22 seats at a U-shaped counter facing the kitchen, but the concept has remained the same: a fun, innovative, surprising tasting menu experience.

      The CecilNew York2013-2017

      Harlem Renaissance redux: In a way, the widespread and long-overdue ascent of African American chefs during this decade can be traced back to a single spot in Harlem, The Cecil, where Alexander Smalls and JJ Johnson pioneered such a fresh approach to cooking and hospitality that Besoek's Joshua Ozersky named it the #1 Best New Restaurant of 2014.

      Compère LapinNew Orleans2015-present

      Conch croquettes and cow heel soup, curried goat and collard greens with coconut cream&mdashchef Nina Compton&rsquos Caribbean-leaning menu breaks with Big Easy tradition and reinvigorates it at the same time.

      CosmeNew York2014-present

      As soon as Mexico City's Enrique Olvera planted a flag in the Flatiron District, New Yorkers poured through the front door, hungry for duck carnitas, tostadas with uni and bone marrow, and the indisputable dessert of the decade &mdash corn-husk meringue with corn mousse.

      CúrateAsheville, North Carolina2011-present

      Katie Button&rsquos state-of-the-art tapas hub is extra evidence that, in this decade, the big cities no longer had a monopoly on great cooking.

      CurePittsburgh2011-2019

      The neighborhood charcuterie shed that helped transform a city.

      ElizabethChicago2012-present

      The Michelin-starred flagship of chef Iliana Regan's funky, foraged, magic-realist vision of the Midwest.

      EstelaNew York2013-present

      It looks like nothing from the outside&mdasha black second-floor awning over Houston Street&mdashbut inside you find natural wines, head-spinning flavors hiding in plain sight (thanks to chef Ignacio Mattos), and (on one now-legendary evening) Barack and Michelle Obama.

      Fish & GameHudson, New York2013-present

      The spot that kickstarted a new wave of cooking in the Hudson Valley and the Catskills.

      GjustaVenice, California2014-present

      Smoked fish, fresh bread, warm pastries&mdasheverything you&rsquod want in your dream picnic basket on the beach.

      Greenhouse Tavern Cleveland2010-present

      Within its warm, woodsy interior, Greenhouse Tavern serves indulgent dishes like pigs head and fried brussels sprouts, all sourced from local Ohio farms. The promise of a green eating experience is mundane nowadays, but it sure wasn&rsquot back when the Tavern opened.

      The GreySavannah, Georgia2014-present

      The symbolism is undeniable&mdashMashama Bailey and Johno Morisano&rsquos restaurant rose out of the remains of a formerly segregated bus station on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard&mdashbut what makes The Grey a destination is the open-hearted generosity of Chef Bailey&rsquos cooking.

      Han OakPortland, Oregon2016-present

      You feel like you&rsquore eating family-style Korean food in chef Peter Cho&rsquos backyard, because you are. That&rsquos his mom in the kitchen making dumplings.

      HuskCharleston, South Carolina2010-present

      Spiced pecans and pimento cheese, country ham and cornbread&mdashwith the first Husk, Sean Brock single-handedly supercharged Southern cuisine.

      Jose EnriqueSan Juan, Puerto Rico2007-present

      A house party of a restaurant that also happens to offer a mission statement about reclaiming Caribbean foodways.

      JuneBabySeattle2017-present

      With more and more chefs like Kwame Onwuachi, Omar Tate, JJ Johnson, Mashama Bailey, and Eric Adjepong using food to explore the history of the African diaspora, this was the restaurant that solidified chef Edouardo Jordan&rsquos position as a leader of the movement.

      MesDallas2014-present

      Just when the American steakhouse started to grow stale, John Tesar found a way to reinvent it.

      Little Jack&rsquos TavernCharleston, South Carolina2016-present

      A perfect little burger. A wooden bar. Green checkered tablecloths and a crisp martini. Brooks Reitz's neighborhood spot is proof that a throwback formula can be a sublime thing when perfectly executed.

      Mission Chinese FoodSan Francisco, New York2010-present

      Danny Bowien&rsquos kung pao pastrami just might be the signature dish of the whole decade.

      Nancy&rsquos HustleHouston2017-present

      Like a truckstop that spent a gap year in Copenhagen.

      VolgendeChicago2011-present

      The Grant Achatz atelier that (like Torrisi Italian Specialties in New York) made &ldquolooking back&rdquo into a creative act, and did so vigorously, by turning into a completely different restaurant every season.

      Night + Market SongLos Angeles2014-present

      Thanks to Thai flavor bombs like crispy rice salad and fried chicken thighs and catfish "tamales" and sweet potato massaman curry, the Silver Lake branch of chef Kris Yenbamroong's mini-empire became the decade's ultimate Southern California wines-and-bites hangout.

      N/nakaLos Angeles2011-present

      Kaiseki as California autobiography, thanks to chef Niki Nakayama and partner Carole Iida.

      Nyum BaiOakland, California2014-present

      Nite Yun&rsquos joyous but painstaking revival of Cambodian recipes that were thought to have been lost.

      Pizzeria BeddiaPhiladelphia2019-present

      The restaurant that reminded us, thanks to chef Joe Beddia, that trailblazing cuisine could arise from little more than cheese and dough.

      SaisonSan Francisco2012-present

      Ingredient-worship as a spiritual practice.

      Seven ReasonsWashington D.C.2019-present

      A decade-ending triumph, with Venezuelan chef Enrique Limardo&rsquos cooking serving as a meal-length tribute to Latin American spirit.

      State Bird ProvisionsSan Francisco2012-present

      Creative California cooking served dim sum style, which is, at the end of the day, the best way to dine for maximum fun and adventure.

      SqirlLos Angeles2011-present

      The restaurant that taught us, thanks to chef Jessica Koslow, that trailblazing cuisine might be found in a bowl of rice or a jam-smeared slab of toast before noon.

      Superiority BurgerNew York2015-present

      Along with chef Tal Ronnen&rsquos Crossroads Kitchen in Los Angeles, chef Brooks Headley has reanimated the argument that eating vegetarian can be cool.

      Taco MariaOrange County, California2013-present

      Carlos Salgado&rsquos mecca of Mexican cuisine is both disarmingly approachable (it&rsquos in a shopping mall!) and dizzyingly innovative.

      Tartine ManufactorySan Francisco2016-present

      The heavyweight champion of all-day cafés.

      Turkey & The WolfNew Orleans2016-present

      Because in the end, what you really want is a sandwich.

      Via CarotaNew York2014-present

      Downtown Manhattan&rsquos unofficial clubhouse, with an abundance of perfect pasta and an absence of snobbery.

      The Walrus & the Carpenter Seattle2010-present

      Oyster counters abound these days this one, from chef Renee Erickson, remains the gold standard.

      Willows InnLummi Island, Washington2010-present

      Foraged foods and fresh fish, clams, oysters, and scallops make the Willow Inn well worth the ferry trip to its island. The overnight stay, too.


      Friday, February 21, 2014

      Restaurant: Oyamel (Washington, D.C.)

      Last year, I wrote about Jaleo as it celebrated its first 20 years. This year, another José Andrés restaurant reaches a milestone, as Oyamel, his Mexican restaurant, turns 10. The newly expanded space is decked out and ready to celebrate.

      Initially, I was unimpressed with Oyamel. It opened in 2004 in Crystal City and we paid it a visit around that time. I thought the tacos were too small and the tres leches cake too dry. These were the days when I was so into Tex-Mex that if my Mexican food wasn't oversized and draped in cheese I wasn't interested. We were huge fans of our neighborhood Alero in Cleveland Park (which we've lately rediscovered is a great place for Sunday afternoon fajitas and margaritas). I just didn't get the small plate concept translated to Mexican.

      Later, after its move downtown, I gave Oyamel a second chance and grew to really love it. Now I count it among my favorite Mexican restaurants. It's menu offers a great balance between favorite dishes that are always available and seasonal specials. I recommend aiming for a mix of both.

      Dinner must start with table-side guacamole (pictured at top), which is sort of a cliché, but theirs is so good I look past that. It's classic but interesting too, made with green tomatillo, a nice squeeze of lime juice and a crumble of queso fresco. The chips are also quite satisfying, crisp and salty as they arrive with a smoky-spicy salsa. Run out of chips? They promptly bring more.

      The Oyamel margarita on the left and a daily special margarita on the right.

      Of course, a good margarita is just the ticket to wash down that guacamole. The classic made with tequila blanco, triple sec and lime is tart and refreshing. For something a little different, the Oyamel carries its salt suspended in a foamy "salt air" instead of on the glass's rim. On a recent night, I opted for the margarita daily special and loved it: smoky mezcal with triple sec, apple, cinnamon and lime. The smoky-tart flavor of the mezcal with the apple and lime was something I'd love to try to replicate.

      Acelgas con nuez de Castilla: sautéed Swiss chard with cabbage, shallots, toasted hazelnuts, raisins and apricot puree.

      Like Andrés' other Penn Quarter pillars, Jaleo and Zaytinya, Oyamel's menu is dominated by small plates. I'd generally recommend five or six for table of two. On a recent evening, our favorite was the seasonal Acelgas con nuez de Castilla, which was sauteed Swiss chard with cabbage, shallots, toasted hazelnuts and raisins served over a spiced apricot puree. The combination of the greens, shallots, roasted nuts and sweet raisins was marvelous. Also good that night was Chile en nogada, a poblano pepper stuffed with ground pork, pine nuts and apples topped with a creamy sauce of goat cheese and walnuts and a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds. A lot of the dishes at Oyamel are spicy, but this was one comparatively mild and nicely balanced. Another good vegetable dish was the Brussels sprouts with chile de arbol sauce, pumpkin seed and peanuts, although they weren't really "crispy" as advertised on the menu.

      Tacos are ordered individually, and as I mentioned abovce are fairly small, so they don't share well. So if you see one that interests your party, I recommend ordering at least one each. We enjoyed the Cochinita pibil con cebolla en escabeche (pictured at top), which is pit-barbecued pork flavored with Mexican sour orange and served with pickled red onion. Not the best taco I've had there, but definitely serviceable. I like that the taco offerings rotate, so you'll never see the same selection. Years ago I remember having a really good mushroom and corn taco.

      Chile en nogada: poblano pepper stuffed with ground pork, pine nuts and apples topped with a creamy sauce of goat cheese and walnuts with pomegranate seeds.

      A favorite we always order are the papas al mole, basically French fries in a spicy mole poblano sauce topped with Mexican cream and queso fresco. It's like a Mexican version of fries with gravy and I always want some whenever we go to Oyamel.

      Service at Oyamel is efficient. Sometimes too much so. If you're hoping to swip a chip through a little bit of sauce left on a plate after the main morsels have been devoured, be sure to protect it from the roving bussers, who will snatch it away if you're not looking. Food comes out quickly here too, although they generally pace it so that "starter" type tapas arrive before the heavier meaty ones.

      I'm always surprised when Jaleo and Zaytinya make best DC restaurant lists but Oyamel, for whatever reason, gets fewer accolaides. You wouldn't know it from the crowd assembled near the front door waiting for a table. Despite the recent expansion that added another dining room and doubled the bar, there appears to still be a wait for tables (so I definitely recommend a reservation). Ten years in and Oyamel remains as hot as ever. In fact, the night we were there last, we just missed dining with DC's two biggest VIPs: the President and Mrs. Obama came in for dinner just minutes after we'd left.


      Kyk die video: Kineski fast food (November 2021).