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2014 Internasionale sjef van die jaar: Andoni Luis Aduriz

2014 Internasionale sjef van die jaar: Andoni Luis Aduriz

Net twee jaar nadat Mugaritz in 2000 geopen is, verdien Aduriz sy eerste Michelin -ster; hy het nog vyf jaar later gesluk, en hy is aan San Pellegrino se lys van die 50 beste restaurante ter wêreld nege jaar lank (verlede jaar die sesde plek). Selfs terwyl die wêreld wag om te sien wat die elBulli-stigting van Ferran Adrià gaan word, het Aduriz die kookkuns vir die avant-garde in Spanje opgetel-en u kan redeneer vir die wêreld.

Dan is daar natuurlik sy vernuwing by Mugaritz (op die 31ste plek op Die Daily Meal se lys van die beste restaurante in Europa in 2014), 'n voormalige melkery in die heuwels bo San Sebastián, aan die ander kant van Spanje van Roses, waar Aduriz by elBulli gewerk het. Van sy naam verduidelik hy: "Ons haritza ('eik' in Baskies) is strategies geleë langs die lyn wat Errenteria en Astigarraga verdeel. Hierdie boom grens dus die muga (grens) tussen beide dorpe. Muga eta haritza. Mugaritz."

Met 'n blaadjie uit Ferran Adrià se boek, sluit Mugaritz elke jaar vier maande lank, waartydens sy span hulself uitsluitlik toewy aan kreatiwiteit. Let op die webwerf van Mugaritz: 'Dit is 'n plek waar ons soms selfs maaltye bedien.' Dit is ook die soort restaurant wat eetbare trompe-l'œil bedien soos aartappel "klippe" en slotte van "hare" gemaak van tapenade en seewier. Jy plaas jouself in die hande van die sjef en maak jou gedagtes oop vir reise deur geheue en emosie, soos voorberei deur 'n moderne samesmelting van gekke wetenskaplike en towenaar.

Vanweë sy innoverende denke en benadering, sy leierskap en kreatiwiteit en die fassinerende kosreise wat hy onverskrokke, oopkopdineerders bied, kondig ons aan dat sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz deur The Daily Meal uitgesonder is as die internasionale sjef van 2014 Jaar (hierdie jaar aangesluit deur The Daily Meal se Amerikaanse sjef van die jaar 2014 Sean Brock). 'N Kurkentrekker kan dien om een ​​van die beste wyne ter wêreld oop te maak, maar ook om jou buurman dood te maak ... met proe -spyskaarte kan dieselfde gebeur. Sommige mense gebruik dit om 'n seleksie van die beste geregte aan die klante van hul restaurant te wys, en sommige mense gebruik dit as 'n manier om die eetkamer skoon te maak.

Ons het 'n beroep op sjefs gedoen om te ontdek waarheen hulle, en saam met hulle die toestand van voedsel, op pad is. In hierdie onderhoud met Andoni Luis Aduriz bespreek die sjef wat die Baskenland so 'n kookkuns maak, die invloed van Ferran Adrià, wat hy graag wil hê dat sy nalatenskap moet wees, en filosofeer hy oor die proe van spyskaarte met behulp van 'n kurkentrekker -metafoor.

The Daily Meal: Wat is dit oor die Baskeland wat dit so 'n kookkuns in die 20ste en 21ste eeu gemaak het?

Andoni Luiz Aduriz: En nie net in Spanje nie, en nie net in die 20ste en 21ste eeu nie. As ons intelligent werk, sal Baskeland in die toekoms 'n [gastronomiese] verwysing bly. Na my mening is die sleutels die omvang van die land, klein, vol diversiteit en oop vir die wêreld; die karakter van sy mense en hul maniere, wat voorbehou is, maar vriendelik en opreg; en die lewensfilosofie: Ons is 'n klein bevolking wat die verskille onder mekaar respekteer, maar ook ondernemend, kreatief en hardwerkend. As u dit alles 'n passie vir die unieke kombuis in die wêreld toevoeg, waarvan die gastronomiese samelewings [klubs van toegewyde amateurkokke wat bymekaarkom om te kook en maaltye te ontmoet] 'n weerspieëling is, maak dit Baskenland 'n onweerstaanbare bestemming vir kosliefhebbers.


Andoni Luis Aduriz

Die Baskiese sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz was een van die invloedrykste sjefs van ons tyd - soos blyk uit die aantal restaurante regoor die wêreld (van Portugal tot Brasilië en Mexiko) wat die Baskiese kookkuns omhels, waarvan baie bestuur word deur die alumni van Aduri.

Gedurende sy loopbaan het hy beide kulinêre evolusie en 'n interdissiplinêre benadering geprioritiseer en verskeie kruisings met kuns en wetenskappe gemaak op soek na nuwe vrae vir gastronomie. Aduriz is beskermheer van die Baskiese kookkuns en lid van die Tufts Nutrition Council van die Tufts University, 'n groep internasionale leiers met uiteenlopende agtergronde wat fokus op voeding en gesondheid. Hy het ook buitengewone vennootskappe aangegaan vir sy gastronomiese skeppings, soos La Fura dels Baus, die Spaanse teateropvoeringsgroep en die spysenieringsnavorsingsentrum AZTI, benewens Imagineering Institute, die multi-dissiplinêre internet- en digitale media-navorsings- en ontwikkelingsentrum.

Hy is in 1971 gebore in die stad San Sebastián, waar hy met sy kookkuns begin het. Aduriz was 'n intern by Pedro Subijana (Akelarre), Juan Mari Arzak (Arzak) en Ramón Roteta (wie se gelyknamige restaurant in Gipuzkoa was) voordat hy in elBulli, die restaurant van een van die wêreld se bekendste sjefs, Ferran Adrià, gewerk het. In 1998 het hy Mugaritz geopen, in Errenteria, Baskeland, wat was erken met 2 Michelin -sterre sedert 2006 en as een van die 50 beste restaurante ter wêreld. In 'n mark waar baie restaurante nie die eerste twee lewensjare oorskry nie, het Mugaritz daarin geslaag om 12 van hulle onder die top 10 in die lys van die 50 beste restaurante ter wêreld te hou, het meer as 1500 ontwrigtende geregte geskep en bly een van die mees relevante restaurante in die voedseltoneel.

Mugaritz het vernuwe deur sy uitdagende en speelse spyskaart jaarliks ​​van nuuts af te herskep (die restaurantseisoen duur van April tot Desember) en 'n elite R+D -span te behou om ontwrigtende geregte te skep gedurende die vier maande wat die restaurant gesluit bly vir die publiek. In Mugaritz het Aduriz daarin geslaag om 'n balans te vind tussen avant-garde en tradisionele Baskiese kookkuns, met die fokus op plaaslike bestanddele uit die berge en die see, soos stokvis, lam, sampioene en kokotchas (wange), 'n plaaslike lekkerny. Sy kenmerkende kreatiewe, uitdagende resepte wissel van eetbare aartappelstene, 'n peer in verrottingsproses en 'n Michelin -man gemaak van marshmallow.

As deel van sy idee van sosialisering van die kombuis het Andoni Luis Aduriz klas gegee aan die Harvard Universiteit, die Massachusetts Institute of Technology, die Universiteit van Baskenland en die opleidingsentrum Alain Ducasse in Frankryk sowel as by die skool The Culinary Institute of America onder andere in die Verenigde State.

Onlangs het die sjef ook 'n nuwe restaurantkonsep in San Sebastian, Topa Sukaderia, ingewy 'n 'kontak -kombuis' vir Baskiese bestanddele en Latyns -Amerikaanse resepte en kookgewoontes. Aangesien die Spaanse kultuur die kookkuns van die lande wat deur Spanje gekoloniseer is, baie beïnvloed het, het hy gedink dat dit interessant sou wees om andersom te kyk: hoe Latyns -Amerika Spaanse kos - of Baskies, meer spesifiek, kan en kan beïnvloed. Dit het hom 20 jaar geneem om uiteindelik 'n ander plek as Mugaritz te open. Nou beplan Aduriz in die geheim om nuwe plekke oop te maak.


Andoni Luis Adurizis ongetwyfeld een van die invloedrykste sjefs van ons tyd. Hy het gedurende sy loopbaan prioriteit gegee aan kulinêre evolusie en 'n interdissiplinêre benadering. Dit het hom in staat gestel om die gevestigde grense oor te steek en 'n rebel in die kombuis te word.

Aduriz ' multidissiplinêre benadering omvat die innovasie in die kombuis en die mees uiteenlopende sektore. Dit blyk duidelik uit sy beskerming van die Baskiese kookkuns en sy lidmaatskap in die Tufts Voedingsraad van die Tufts -universiteit, 'n groep internasionale leiers met uiteenlopende agtergronde wat 'n passie vir voeding en gesondheid deel. Andoni bou brûe wat skynbaar nie -verwante wêrelde is, en sodoende versterk hy sy eie dissipline. Dit kan gesien word in sy samewerking met die mariene en voedingsnavorsingsentrum AZTI en die Imagineering Institute, 'n multi-dissiplinêre sentrum vir navorsing en ontwikkeling van internet en digitale media. Sy veelsydigheid en kreatiwiteit woed altyd op die voorafbepaalde grense, en maak vensters oop vir baie nuwe wêrelde. Hierdie baanbrekersgesindheid gee aanleiding tot teateropvoerings met La Fura dels Baus en tot die bevordering van uiteenlopende dokumentêre programme soos Mugaritz BSO en OFF-ROAD. Aduriz wil ons verlei met 'n multisensoriese ervaring.

So iets gebeur nie oornag nie. Andoni Luis Aduriz is in 1971 in San Sebastian gebore, 'n stad in die hartjie van die Baskiese gastronomie. Hy het sy kulinêre studies begin, maar na 'n nie heeltemal suksesvolle onderneming in die akademiese wêreld het die jongmense Andoni het homself begin uitdruk deur middel van smaak en tekstuur. Daarna ontwikkel Andoni sy waardering vir die nuwe Baskiese kombuis en plaaslike produkte. Nadat hy sy studies voltooi het, het hy na Katalonië gegaan om in te werk El Bulli, die tuiste van een van die bekendste sjefs ter wêreld, Ferran Adri & agrave. Hierdie ervaring het vir hom 'n wêreld van moontlikhede oopgemaak.

In 1998, Aduriz alleen sy mees riskante en bevredigende projek aangepak: Mugaritz, wat sedert 2006 met 2 Michelin -sterre erken word. Mugaritz het sinoniem geword met R+D en die woord & ldquorestaurant & rdquo het opgehou bestaan. Soos Aduriz erken self dat dit iets meer is & rdquo.

Mugaritz sluit vier maande per jaar, 'n venster wat byna uitsluitlik aan kreatiwiteit gewy is. Dit is 'n plek waar ons soms selfs maaltye bedien en hellip & rdquo Die ligging, met die eik op die grens, bied 'n doek waarop die sjef sy kreatiwiteit kan ontketen, en 'n plek omring deur tradisie en plaaslike produkte. In Mugaritz, Aduriz het daarin geslaag om 'n balans te vind tussen avant-garde en tradisionele Baskiese kookkuns. Sy weiering om te voldoen het tot tallose prestasies gelei: sedert 2006 Mugaritz het onder die top tien in die lys van Restaurant Tydskrif.

As deel van sy idee van sosialisering van die kombuis Andoni Luis Aduriz het klasse gegee in Harvard Universiteit, die Massachusetts Instituut van Tegnologie, die Universiteit van Baskeland, Deusto Universiteit en Alain Ducasse opleidingsentrum in Frankryk sowel as in die skool Die Culinary Institute of America onder andere in die Verenigde State.

Wat die verspreiding betref, gaan die sjef 'n stap verder. Benewens die bogenoemde kursusse, Aduriz het ook deelgeneem aan wetenskaplike konferensies, soos die Konferensie oor toegepaste kognitiewe sielkunde georganiseer deur die Baskiese sentrum vir kognisie, brein en taal of die in Primêre Sorgkonferensie. Buiten die Baskiese outonome gemeenskap was die sjef ook 'n spreker by die Fakulteit Gesondheidswetenskappe, Universiteit van Alicante, die Kongres van die Internasionaal vir biochemie en molekulêre biologie en by El futuro X venir, 'n reeks konferensies wat deur Fundaci & oacuten Telef & oacutenica. Al sy aktiwiteite as afrigter, altyd gebaseer op sy ervaring, het van hom 'n rolmodel gemaak, 'n gids wat spanne op baie verskillende gebiede aangemoedig het.

Die sjef is ook 'n adviseur vir verskillende gastronomiese ondernemings en ondernemings. & Quot

Maar om net oor te praat Andoni Luis Aduriz 's professionele kant sou 'n groot fout wees. Sy menslike kant word verteenwoordig deur sy aktiwiteite, natuurlik altyd voedselverwant. Die sjef bevorder jaarliks ​​kulinêre inisiatiewe waarvan die enigste doel is om geld in te samel vir organisasies soos Asteamur, L 'ataxie Charlevoix-Saguenay Foundation, Starlight Children 's Foundation Australia, UNICEF en vele ander.

Die kombinasie van die benadering tot nuwe dissiplines in die fokus op kookkuns en sy onvermoeide sorg oor die produk het Andoni Luis Aduriz sedert die begin van sy professionele loopbaan talle toekennings besorg:

-Premio Nacional de Gastronom & iacutea (2002).
-Euskadi de Gastronom & iacutea aan die beste kok volgens Academia Vasca de Gastronom & iacutea (2003).
-& quotChef 's Choice Award & quot, deur die hande van sy mede -sjefs in die St. Pellegrino -lys (2006 en 2012).
- Eckart Witzigmann -toekenning (2012).

- Toekenning vir gesonde kos (persoonlikheid) deur die Royal Academy of Gastronomy (2018).

Andoni Luis Aduriz ontwikkel 'n intense uitgewery en is outeur en mede-outeur van die volgende boeke:

-La joven cocina vasca (1996). Ixo -hoofartikel
- El mercado en el plato (1998). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Tabula Huevo (2000). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Foie Gras (2002). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Tabula Bacalao (2003). Montagud -redakteurs
- Clorofilia (2004). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Txikichef (2006). Hariadna -hoofartikel
- Bestiarium Gastronomicae (2006). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Tabula 35 mm (2007). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Diccionario Bot & aacutenico para Cocineros (2007). Ixo -hoofartikel
- La bot & aacutenica del deseo (2008). Pr & oacutelogo de la edici & oacuten en castellano del libro van Michael Pollan
- Las primeras palabras de la cocina (2009). Ixo -hoofartikel
- Los Bajos de la Alta Cocina (2009). Ixo -hoofartikel
- El Dilema del Omn & iacutevoro (2011). Pr & oacutelogo de la edici & oacuten en castellano del libro van Michael Pollan.
- El Gourmet Extraterrestre (2011). Redaksionele Planeta
- Larousse Gastronomique (2011). Redaksie Larousse. Edici & oacuten revisada y prologada por A. Luis Aduriz
- Innovaci & oacuten abierta y alta cocina (2011). Ediciones Pir & aacutemide
- Mugaritz - A Natural Science of Cooking- (2012). Redaksionele Phaidon Press
- Cocinar, comer, convivir (2012). Ediciones Destino
- Las resetas de mi casa (2013). Ediciones Destino.


2014 Internasionale sjef van die jaar: Andoni Luis Aduriz - Resepte

deur Katherine Martinelli se bydraes van Grace Nguyen

Mugaritz Dit is in 1998 geopen en is skaars 'n restaurant waarop u net teëkom. Die meerderheid Aduriz & rsquos -gaste, wat op 'n plattelandse heuwel geleë is, dertig minute buite die stad San Sebastian, het hul vakansie omstreeks een ete by die plaashuis beplan. Hulle beleef waarvoor Aduriz veral bekend is: plaaslike en hiperseisoense kookkuns wat progressief, vernuwend en diep aan die aarde gekoppel is.

Aduriz kies 'n onderwerp van belang, bemeester dit en gaan aan, maar vergeet of laat nooit af wat hy geleer het nie. & ldquo Hierdie strewe om te ontwikkel is die menslikste ding, & rdquo verduidelik Aduriz. & ldquo Ons geniet dit om onsself uit te vind en te verbeter. & rdquo In 2003 het hy byvoorbeeld gepubliseer Tabula Bacalao, 'n hoog aangeskrewe verhandeling oor kabeljouvisse. Dieselfde jaar het Aduriz sy fokus verskuif na foie gras, publiseer Foie Gras. Sy belangstelling draai dan na blomme, parfuum, essensies en die wisselwerking tussen geur en geur. Hy is van mening dat die kennis van die chemiese komponente van geure kan lei tot nuwe en merkwaardige heerlike voedselparings, wat tot die publikasie van Diccionario Bot & aacutenico Para Cocineros (2007).

Ten spyte van hierdie merkwaardige kulinêre vooruitgang, was geen innovasie so ikonies soos sy ontwikkeling van aartappelstene en sjokoladeborrels nie. Aduriz, een van die eerste sjefs wat met klei gewerk het, bied eenvoudige aartappels wat soos blink rotse lyk, maar eintlik 'n romerige tekstuur en weelderige smaak het. & ldquo Hulle verras u en stel u terselfdertyd op u gemak, & rdquo verduidelik hy, want u besef dat u deur eenvoudige aartappels mislei is. Terselfdertyd is hulle eenvoudig, poëties en prakties. Aduriz & rsquos -sjokoladeborrels, vervaardig met behulp van xanthamgom en 'n vistenkborrel, is altyd vermaaklik. Die lugagtige bolle behou hul vorm op die bord lank genoeg om bedien te word, en bars dan speels oor die nagereg wat hulle weggesteek het.

Ongeag wat Aduriz kies om te verken, sy filosofie bly gewortel in die eerbiediging van die natuur en rsquos -oorvloed, soos geïllustreer deur Mugaritz. Met 'n agtergrond van golwende heuwels en landbougrond, lyk die restaurant na 'n rustieke plattelandse plaashuis. Agter Mugaritz is 'n kruie- en groentetuin wat die restaurant voorsien. Aduriz voer ook die omgewing in die omgewing vir wilde sampioene, blomme, blare en plante. Hierdie avant-garde baanbreker het een voet in die laboratorium en een voet in die aarde. Die kookwêreld wag met opgehoue ​​asem op die volgende stap in sy evolusie.


Andoni Luis Aduriz se lekkergoedprojek -

Sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz van die Mugaritz restaurant het 'n nuwe veldtog begin, genaamd Die lekkergoedprojek met die doel om die lekkergoed van die wêreld te ondersoek.

Die sjef het saamgewerk Iñaki Martínez de Albeniz, 'n sosioloog van Die Universiteit van Baskeland om 'n diepgaande studie oor 'n aantal faktore te doen. 'Wat is lekkergoed? Wanneer en hoe word dit verbruik? Wat is die oorheersende geur van die lekkergoed in u land? Waar en hoe word dit verkoop? Watter lekkergoed het jou kinderjare gekenmerk? ”

Die projek behels groot data -insameling waarin mense gevra word om 'n vraelys oor lekkergoed in te vul met onderwerpe soos Lekkergoed -ekonomie, lekkergoedherinneringe en Candy Semantics.

Die span sê dat die versamelde data 'n 'wêreldkaart van die kulturele diversifikasie van snoepgoed' sal bou en slegs 'n paar van die 'eindelose vrae' wat snoep betref, beantwoord.

'Suikergoed is sterk in ons daaglikse lewe, maar baie ander interessante dinge bly nie opgemerk nie.' verduidelik die webwerf, "The Candy Project poog om hierdie vrae te beantwoord en die ware betekenis van lekkergoed te red deur 'n sistematiese studie van die teksture en geure daarvan. Die projek sal die historiese evolusie van lekkergoed opspoor, die voorkoms in die kinderjare ontleed en die verband met die vorming van kinders opspoor. ”

Die span, wat ook insluit Slow Food International en die Universiteit van Gastronomiese Wetenskappe, hoop om aan te toon hoe weer en globalisering die manier waarop ons lekkergoed inneem, verander het met die eerste beslissende studie in sy soort.

Ons hou hul bevindings fyn dop, en gaan vir eers na die webwerf en verken die Candy Project.


Die hartige kant van StarChefs International Chefs Congress

Wat kry jy as jy Pierre Hermé, Massimo Bottura, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Grant Achatz, Jeffrey Steingarten, Elizabeth Falkner en Johnny Iuzzini almal onder dieselfde dak het? Die StarChefs International Chefs Congress, een van die interessantste geleenthede in die kulinêre bedryf.

Die tema van die ICC van hierdie jaar was "The Sixth Sense", om 'n gesprek met Grant Achatz van Chicago's Alinea oor kook met sy sesde sintuig te hoor, was 'n aangrypende ervaring. Achatz is 'n kankeroorlewende, spesifiek kanker van die tong. Tydens sy siekte kon Achatz niks proe nie, en hy het gepraat oor hoe hy op sy sesde sintuig in die kombuis moes staatmaak. Vir elke sjef om sy smaak te verloor, is dit 'n vreeslike ding, vir 'n reuse -talent soos Achatz lyk dit nog meer 'n tragedie. Maar Achatz sukkel deur, kook met sy sesde sintuig en verower uiteindelik die kanker. Vandag gaan hy voort met die skep van 'n transendentale eetervaring by Alinea.

Grant Achatz en Kim Severson (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Achatz het ook gepraat van 'n ander interpretasie van die sesde sintuig, die manier waarop 'n persoon voel as hy sy kos ervaar. Hy het vir hom gesê dat dit nie genoeg is om lekker kos te maak nie, hy wil 'n reaksie van sy kliënte oproep, hulle na plekke neem waar hulle nog nooit was nie, om hulle verstandelik, konseptueel, selfs fisies te beweeg. Hy beskou sy werk as 'n sjef wat dieselfde potensiaal het om mense te beweeg as die werk van 'n skilder of musikant.

Vir my was die mees opvallende en vermaaklike demonstrasie van die ICC van hierdie jaar dié van Andoni Luis Aduriz van Mugaritz in Errenteria, Spanje. Soos baie sjefs wat met 'n boodskap ronddraf, het Aduriz 'n film saamgebring oor sy restaurant, spesifiek oor die bronne van die bestanddele daarvan. Die film het ons na die kus geneem waar sy vissers/vroue net vir Mugaritz vang, in die heuwels rondom Mugaritz na die herders en in die vallei na die boere. Om afstand in perspektief te plaas, het die film 'n streekkaart getoon, waarin die ligging van Mugaritz gemerk is ten opsigte van die bronne van sy produkte, wat die plaaslike aard van alles wat Mugaritz sy kliënte bied, aantoon.

Die Spaanse sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz van Mugaritz berei voor om monsters van "roestige spyker" aan die ICC -hoofverhoogpubliek te gee (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

In films wat tegnieke demonstreer, wys Aduriz ons hoe om sy "Rusty Nails", sy "Walnut" en 'n gereg "Shhh, Cat's Got Your Tongue" te maak, 'n samestelling van lamtong, gekarameliseerde uie, kruie en knoffelblomme . Die film demonstreer ook sy nagereg met die titel "The Broken Egg, The Frozen Yolk, and The White Flowers", en sê dat dit hom vier jaar geneem het om die perfekte manier te vind om die eetbare eierdop te maak. Toe gooi hy sy 'eierdoppe' in die gehoor, waarvan die meeste verpletter het toe hulle gegryp is. Ek het self 'n voorsmakie behaal, dit was 'n bietjie verbysterend hoe dit werklik die tekstuur en voorkoms van 'n eierdop het, maar soet smaak. En dit was natuurlik glad nie soos die onaangename ervaring om per ongeluk 'n bietjie eierdop in 'n omelet te byt nie!

Sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz se mannitolsuiker -eierdop vir sy 'Broken Egg' nagereg (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Vir my was dit 'n buitengewone spesiale ICC omdat die beroemdste sjef in Italië vandag, Massimo Bottura van Osteria Francescana in Modena-'n stad weg van waar my gesin in Reggio Emilia woon-die reis gemaak het om 'n film te deel waarop hy gemaak het die Po -riviervallei. Die film, getiteld "Il Riturno" (Going Back), het Italiaanse politici gemotiveer om miljoene euro's te spandeer om die Po-rivier skoon te maak en die eeue oue landbou-Mekka wat die Po-vallei is, te herstel. Sy film het my gepas terug na die omgewing van Emilia Romagna, na die mense, die landskap en die produksie daarvan vervoer, en ek het gelag toe een van die inwoners in die film sê: 'U kan nie oor Emilia praat sonder om oor varke te praat nie.'

Bottura is 'n sjef met die doel om alle sjefs-en alle mense-in die rigting van volhoubaarheid te neem. In die interpretasie van die tema van The Sixth Sense as 'n etiese dimensie, het Bottura gesê: "As ons as sjefs nie 'n etiese benadering tot voedsel het nie, dan het ons nie 'n estetika nie. Om sjefs in die 21ste eeu te wees, moet ons bewus wees van ons optrede en ons idees omdat die wêreld ons dophou. ” Bottura het gepraat oor die ondersteuning van kleinboere, volhoubare visvang, familie -suiwelprodusente en om terug te keer na die verlede, sodat ons eintlik 'n toekoms kan hê.

Sjef Massimo Bottura bespreek die terugkeer na die wortels van Italiaanse kookkuns op die ICC -hoofverhoog (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Will Blunt, besturende redakteur van StarChefs.com, beaam die boodskap van Bottura en Aduriz en sê vir my: "Die wêreld verander, en so ook die bedryf. Nou meer as ooit ondersoek ons ​​nie net ons produkte en metodes nie, maar ons motivering-en ons plek in die groter sosiale gemeenskap. Die sesde sintuig sal die sentrale produk van die verantwoordelike, ambisieuse professionele persoon word. "

StarChefs ICC het almal met stof tot nadenke gevul. En Antoinette Bruno, hoofredakteur van StarChefs.com, het besin oor haar wêreldwye reis om vanjaar se aanbieders te vind, aanbieders wat pas by die tema van The Sixth Sense. "Hierdie jaar het ons wêreldwyd bewyse van die sesde sintuig gesien, nie net in tempels van die avant-garde-kombuis nie, maar oral waar die gasvryheidsbedryf diep bereik."

Gelukkig, benewens stof tot nadenke, vul die ICC ook almal met kos vir die maag. Van al die stalletjies wat die hele dag middagete en proewe aanbied, tot die aandgeleenthede soos die Presenters Welcome Dinner en The New York Rising Stars Gala, ek het 'n wêreld van verskillende kosse geproe.

Onder my gunstelinge was natuurlik die Prosciutto di Parma. Ek kon net nie by die hok verbygaan sonder om myself by 'n paar mondjies van die glinsterende, klamgemaakte ham te help nie. In die Verenigde State is dit moeilik om Prosciutto di Parma te vind wat nie al die vet aan die buitekant weggesny het nie. Ek het by deli -werkers gekla dat ek dit gedoen het, want die buitenste laag vet verhoed dat die ham uitdroog. Gelukkig het die buitenste laag vet by StarChefs ICC gebly.

'N Droomoomblik: sjef Massimo Bottura sny Proscitto di Parma op 'n Berkel -snyer (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Die kompetisie vir die Prosciutto di Parma was die Jamòn Ibèrico van Cinco Jotas (5J). Cinco Jotas, 'n nuweling in die ICC's Spanish Pavilion, word algemeen beskou as die beste Jamòn Ibèrico in Spanje, en dit is eersdaags gereed om die Amerikaanse mark te bereik. Hulle dieet is gemaak van suiwer Ibèrico-varke wat op die weivelde van Jabugo rondloop, en bestaan ​​uit wildgroeiende mielie-eike, tiemie en roosmaryn. Die smaak en marmering was buitengewoon, en ek vermoed dat dit nie lank sal duur voordat Cinco Jotas 'n topverkoper in hoogstaande winkels in Amerika is nie. Dit is so goed.

Jamòn Ibèrico van Cinco Jotas (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Een baie cool item was die Foie Gras Lollypop van die sjefs Claudio Ferrer en Alex Martinez van Electrolux. Ek is nie seker hoeveel van hierdie verkoelde bolletjies sagte fois ek eintlik geëet het nie, maar na 'n rukkie, toe ek weer sou terugkeer, het hulle my wetende blik gegee. Alhoewel dit eenvoudiger en op die aarde was, was die perfeksie van die geroosterde Australiese lam met lensies van Meat & Livestock Australia nog 'n gereg wat ek myself herhaaldelik gehelp het. Met soveel vooraanstaande kookkuns rondom, was dit lekker om gemakskos te hê wat toelaat dat bestanddele van topgehalte, eerder as innoverende tegnieke, die belangrikste plek is.

Foie gras suigstokkie (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

Geroosterde Australiese lam met lensies (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

By die StarChefs ICC Presenters Welcome Dinner was my gunstelinggereg die gasheer -sjef Ken Oringer se White Orchid Root Gazpacho. Oringer, sjef-eienaar van Boston's Clio en Uni Sashimi Bar, is al jare 'n bekende gesig by StarChefs ICC, en elke jaar kry hy dit reg om geregte te maak wat altyd my gunsteling is.

Gasheer sjef Ken Oringer se pragtige White Orchid Root Gazpacho (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

By die New York Rising Stars -gala, aangebied deur sjef Yuhi Fujinaga, het ek ondanks die vol ruimte daarin geslaag om deur die skare te buig en die geregte van al die Rising Star -sjefs te proe. My gunsteling, wat ook toevallig deur die skare as die gunsteling aangewys is, was die Octopus a la Plancha deur sjef Aaron Chambers van Boulud Sud. Die tweede keer was die Peruaanse hoender, Aji Verde, Huancaina -sous en Papas Fritas deur sjef Adam Schop van Nuela.

Die rysster -sjef Aaron Chambers se Octopus a la Plancha is aangewys as die beste gereg van die aand (met vergunning StarChefs.com)

U kan die resepte van al die Rising Stars Gala -geregte op StarChefs.com vind, klik net op die sjef se naam en u sien die naam van hul gereg langs hul biografie.

Die hartige kant van StarChefs International Chefs Congress het my mond laat water kry, en soms het ek my oë laat water, terwyl ek na Grant Achatz hoor praat en na die film Il Riturno kyk. Van die begin tot die einde was alles wat die hart van die ICC was, 'n aangrypende en onvergeetlike ervaring. Maar die International Chefs Congress het nie hierop gestop nie; daar was ook 'n lieflike kant. Ek hoop dus dat u ruimte vir nagereg gespaar het, want my volgende artikel behandel die lieflike hoogtepunte van Pierre Hermé wat op die hoofverhoog pryk en 'n demo oor Franse macarons doen, na die Tweede Jaarlikse StarChefs International Pastry Competition.


Mugaritz Navorsing en Ontwikkeling

Mugaritz het sinoniem geword met R+D. Mugaritz, wat nou op die 6de plek is op die lys van 50 beste restaurante ter wêreld deur Pellegrino, sluit vier maande per jaar, 'n venster wat byna uitsluitlik toegewy is aan kreatiwiteit. Voordat hy sy eie restaurant oopgemaak het, het sjef Aduriz by El Bulli gewerk en geleer van die wêreld se bekendste sjef Ferran Adrià. Hierdie ervaring het vir hom 'n wêreld van moontlikhede oopgemaak.

Mugaritz vermy tradisionele eetnorme in sy strewe om 'n volledige sintuiglike en kreatiewe ervaring te lewer. Geen spyskaart, eetbare eetgerei en middelpunte, en natuurlik eetbare rivierstene, is 'n paar van die maniere waarop sjef Aduriz die verhale, geure, reuke en teksture lewer wat sy idee vorm van die perfekte reis deur kos.


Kliënte wat hierdie item gekoop het, het ook gekoop

Resensie

Dit is geen praktiese kookboek vir koffietafel nie. Baie van die wonderlike geregte is maklik genoeg om tuis gemaak te word, met 'n bietjie voorbereiding. " — Proeftafel

"Aduriz onthul sy voedselfilosofie en inspirasiebronne. In hierdie pragtig geïllustreerde boek. " — The Bookseller

" 'n Heerlike nuwe boek. Gaan agter die skerms van die gewilde restaurant, bedien met resepte en pragtige fotografie. " — The Independent

Verduidelik die ideologie agter [Andoni se] werk en vul sommige van die raaiselagtige leë spasies in. " — Restaurant

Dit is 'n boek oor 'n restaurant wat geskiedenis skep en oor 'n sjef wat 'n baie groot toekoms vir hom voorlê. Dit is 'n moet-hê as u ernstig is oor u kookkuns. " — Spysenier en hotelhouer

U mag nie 'n onderdompeling hê nie, of u kan 'n natuurlike swart koolzuurhoudende groentekleurstof in u spens of blaargroen lote in die groentelaai hou, maar. Die teks en 70 resepte sal 'n inspirasie wees vir almal wat nuuskierig is. " — New York Magazine

'N Boek vir beide kos- en kunsliefhebbers. " — The Huffington Post

"Mooi en betowerend. " — Kos en wyn

"'N Fassinerende blik op die unieke gees van Aduriz, met resepte wat wys wat gebeur as jy lekker eetgoed na 'n ander heelal vervoer." & Mdash Chowhound


Andoni Aduriz, Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spanje

Ek was nog altyd lief vir sjokolade -macarons totdat ek die macaron de caza in die kombuis van Chef Aduriz in die restaurant Mugaritz in San Sebastian raakgeloop het. Ses maande later in Mexikostad in Mesamerica, sien ek hierdie weergawe van 'n macaron gevoer word vir niksvermoedende gehoorlede wat op die verhoog genooi is en kyk na die reaksies toe hulle 'bloed van vars vark' ’ se bloed ” as een van die bestanddele hoor. Andoni Aduriz is een van my gunsteling sjefs, en ek geniet dit altyd om by Mugaritz te wees en sy heerlike kookkuns te ervaar, maar ek moet rapporteer dat ek my smaak vir sjokolade -macarons van Laduree verloor het. Ons was albei in Lima, Peru vir Mistura, waar hy 'n aanbieder was en onlangs was ek terug in sy stad vir nog 'n ete en 'n interessante gesprek. Ek is nuuskierig om te sien wat hy hierdie keer na Madrid Fusion bring, aangesien dit verlede jaar voedsel bespuitings by sy R & ampD -fasiliteit was, tesame met 'n paar video’s wat gewoonlik met sy voorstelling op die verhoog gepaard gaan.

Restaurante soos Mugaritz bring kosliefhebbers en ander sjefs na die Baskeland en beïnvloed uiteindelik die kombuise oor die hele wêreld. San Sebastian is 'n moet vir almal wat 'n unieke koservaring en 'n maaltyd wil geniet, en minstens een keer in die leeftyd 'n moet. As u 'n kans kry om Aduriz te ontmoet, word u 'n fan soos ek.

Ek het 'n gesprek met Aduriz gehad oor sy kosfilosofie, onder andere onderwerpe wat vroeër gepubliseer is, en as ek dit lees, sal ek verstaan ​​wat hierdie sjef so spesiaal maak.

Andoni Aduriz van Mugaritz

Deur Geeta Bansal Uitvoerende sjef-eienaar, Clay Oven Irvine

Ek het altyd geglo dat herinneringe aan kos wat u op u reise proe, die beste aandenkings van 'n reis is, maklik om in te pak en te vervoer. Ek weet dit, want ek herhaal gereeld my geheue van sulke herinneringe. Mugaritz en sjef Andoni Luis Aduriz speel baie prominent in my herinneringe aan San Sebastian en die gastronomie van Spanje.

San Sebastian, located in the Basque area of Spain close to the border with France, has become the gastronomic capital of the world. The countryside around San Sebastian area is hauntingly beautiful, with verdant green hills, views of the Bay of Biscay, and the Urmea river almost dividing the city into two parts. There is the old town with numerous pinxto (“tapas” in Euskadi, the Basque language) bars and then there are the fabulous restaurants at the pinnacle of haute cuisine.

Chef Aduriz’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Mugaritz (rated #3 by Restaurant Magazine in 2012) is in Errenteria, Gipuzkoa, outside of San Sebastian. Set amongst the picturesque countryside, at the end of a long winding road, is a farmhouse-like structure standing in isolation, surrounded by greenery. The first time we drove there at night, we got lost in the hills the second time we took a taxi and the taxi driver got lost. Now thankfully any navigation system will lead you there in 20 minutes or so from the center of San Sebastian.

Entrance of Mugaritz

If you have a choice, you should visit Mugaritz in the daytime to be able to enjoy the serene setting, and later during your meal be able to understand the connection between the terroir and the cuisine. The food at Mugaritz is representative of local produce, traditions, seasons and the enormous respect Chef Aduriz has for the gifts of nature. His style of cooking is sometimes referred to as neo-naturalism. He changes the properties of foods while preserving the form or sometimes transforms them completely by an advanced scientific process. His food at times is like an intellectual dialogue between the chef and the diner. He plays with your mind and emotions, resulting in a dining experience beyond the food. The menus are constantly changing based on the seasons and on what the research team has created.

Edible clay coated potatoes and stones

If anything, food is the culture of a certain time or place encapsulated and presented on a plate or a menu. Aduriz exemplifies this concept brilliantly, as he presents the Basque culinary traditions in a modern format, re-imagined and representative of here and now. He is a dignified, intellectual chef, part food researcher, part philosopher (a very young 42 year philosopher!). I am enraptured by any conversation or contact with him. He is one of these individuals that cross your path in life and leaves an indelible impression on you that impacts you in a positive manner.

Watermelon Carpaccio

After my first visit and the unforgettable watermelon carpaccio (the last time at his luncheon for the Gastronomika, I did have the vegetable carpaccio which, though brilliant, did not trump the watermelon masterpiece) I have been back for more of these experiences. You enter this large farmhouse-like structure and emerge into a very clean, contemporary, yet traditional dining room with wrought iron screens and the silverware resting on pottery shards. It is very soothing and serene, just like the service, the food, and the chef in the kitchen leading his brigade. His dishes are about texture, technique, creativity, and imagination. Prepare yourself for the unexpected, as on a previous visit we were offered two choices for our meal: Either we submitted to a superlative experience, or we rebelled (or thought we wanted to).

On my last visit the team at Mugaritz was into Papel “Kraft”. The diners are presented with an envelope containing a sheet of edible paper made of flax and wheat! The complicated process of transformation one of the many developed by the R&D team upstairs.

Papel Kraft

This time I went back to the kitchen for the first time since a devastating fire destroyed it in 2010. During this visit to the kitchen, Aduriz offered me a taste of what would be presented at the Gastronomika in a few days: a macaron which looked like a perfect chocolate macaron from Ladurée. At the first bite (knowing Chef Andoni’s sense of whimsy) I knew that I tasted foie (in fact it was partridge and duck liver), but there was another slightly metallic taste that I could not place. The smiles on their faces told me that it was something I would not eat otherwise (At Mugaritz you even enjoy tasting what you know you do not like to eat).

Looking into the kitchen at Mugaritz

The macaron de Caza was served the following week at the Gastronomika along with a short film featuring a primitive huntress who eventually ended up in the Mugaritz dining room, macaron in hand after a hunt through the forest. The mystery was revealed the following week: The albumen from egg white in the macarons had been replaced with fresh pigs blood, which has the same properties.

With Aduriz in the kitchen at Mugaritz

Aduriz has also dabbled in the world of art, theatre, and music in the form of a collaborative music project and a play titled The Degustation de Titus Andronicus. The research aspect and the scientific approach, both elements he absorbed at his time at El Bulli, are nevertheless entirely his own interpretations at Mugaritz. The R&D facility on the floor above the restaurant carries out research that sometimes appears as offerings on the restaurant menu. Their Food sprays are now available on the market in Spain after being presented at the Madrid Fusion conference this January. At this event, Chef Aduriz demonstrated a dish with baked Jerusalem artichokes that mimicked exactly the crabmeat that he served them with on the plate. The Jerusalem artichokes were marinated in a solution of lime (calcium hydroxide) to form a kind of outer coating which preserved the vegetable’s texture during the cooking process. The dish was representative of a nouvel cooking style referred to as neo- naturalism, when natural ingredients are transformed by a complicated scientific process so that they retain their organic texture and shape and mimic another ingredient with perfection.

I presented numerous questions to him during our meeting, which he took the time to absorb and give very thoughtful responses to. If it is possible, I feel even more impressed with Chef Aduriz’s intellect and his grasp of important issues in the world of cuisine. His social consciousness separates him from a lot of chefs in the world,and I feel fortunate to have been able to have this dialogue with him.

What is your philosophy about food?
Given the fact that there are many fine restaurants in the world where people have the choice to eat and create memories, we search to expand the boundaries of the known, create unique moments, and stimulate creative outlook. All this from a quest for excellence and respect for the environment and culture.

A piece of milk veal on embers

What do you not appreciate about restaurant menus?

I believe that if people do not do things better it is because they are ignorant or incapable. I am very tolerant and understanding generally. I believe that restaurants should communicate better what we offer and thus avoid many frustrating episodes. One of the things that bother me the most is when they kidnap time, when the meal is endless.

Is the present fiscal crisis in Spain and the rest of the world affecting the operations of fine dining?
When consulting with professionals who have been in the hospitality business for many decades about the impact of the current crisis, they say that they had never experienced anything like this. Before, when there was a crisis in a sector or country, there was another covering the vacancies…but right now, the situation affects all sectors and a large number of countries, creating a new and difficult situation. We cannot complain, because we work a lot (Mugaritz reservations are not easy to come by), but obviously we have noticed that national customers don’t come as often, and of course, a contraction in domestic consumption is visible.

You choose to highlight a lot of local ingredients in your cuisine? What is the most important reason for doing that?

In Mugaritz, we think that customers do not pay only for our cuisine, they pay for more…they pay for us to search for, explore and introduce them to new recipes and ideas. Also to select to and for them the finest ingredients…so, if we understand that about a vast majority of gourmets who visit us from around the world, it is logical that we make an extra effort to make sure our environment is represented on our dishes.

Wild and cultivated herbs with creamy dressing

There is a lot of interactive process in your menu where the diners interact with the presentation. Why do you want to engage your diners in this way?

When we are moved, we connect with our most transcendent part. Visit a place like Mugaritz, it is something that you cannot do every day, so when it happens, it should be a special and unique experience. If we want people remember this experience for a long time, it has to dial into our emotional memory. We do not want people who visit us that are just observing dinners, we try to have active accomplices in our dining room.

Mortar and pestle: Putting the diners to work!

What do you think about chefs who offer your creations on their menus without giving you due credit?

I think as professionals we do all that we can. I think if someone does not do the right thing it is because he does not know better or has no opportunity to do so. (I ask this question of chefs because I have during my dining experiences have begun to classify plates by the names of chefs who created a particular style or mix of ingredients lately. Rene Redzepi, Albert Adria, Thomas Keller, and Massimo Bottura come to mind)

Chocolate and ferns

You have visited the United States many times, which is your favorite city?
I have lived great experiences in many cities of United States: Chicago, Boston, New Orleans… But if I have to choose, I would pick New York.

When is your next planned visit to the US?

Probably I will be in California next April participating in a event. I have many friends in the U.S. and it is tremendously inspiring visit them. (The introduction to his book Mugaritz: A Natural Science of Cooking has been written by Thomas Keller, of Per Se and French Laundry fame, and by Ferran Adria of the now closed El Bulli. Aduriz was part of the conceptual team of El Bulli for two years before establishing his own restaurant.)

What are your views regarding collaborations with chefs who cook other cuisines?
I am not referring to fusion but actual collaborations where the presentations have items from each cuisine.

I have the good fortune to have traveled widely and met many many chefs worldwide. All chefs are more adept at some things than others so, when I have the opportunity of being in front of someone who has something to teach me, I become a curious apprentice. I like to learn, try to understand and interact.

Is there a particular cuisine that you would like to learn more about?

Honestly, I would like to know everything. I have the good fortune to meet many cooks in the world and when something catches my attention, I have no problem asking a thousand times.

(I heard a story recently about a food event in France. Rene Redzepi of Noma restaurant in Copenhagen was demonstrating a technique for some kind of soup and Chef Aduriz was taking copious notes. To Aduriz surprise, Redzepi announced at the end of the demonstation that this particular technique was in fact inspired by Chef Aduriz.)

What is the most exciting cuisine that you have encountered in your travels?

Traveling with Alex Atala (the handsome world-renowned chef behind D.O.M restaurant in Sao Paolo) around Brazil or around Peru with Gaston Acurio, have been two of the most adventurous experiences of my life. Now I can say that I have eaten some of the most exotic ingredients in the world, especially in Japan.

Which one of your peers do you respect or admire the most?

I deeply admire many colleagues. I respect the committed cook, courageous, sincere and honest and, fortunately I know many cooks who have these attributes.

Which female chef do you think is the most innovative?

Because of the proximity I know Elena Arzak’s work better than that of other female colleagues who are also doing a great job. Personally I consider Elena one of the most innovative professionals I know. (Elena Arzak, along with her father Juan Mari, heads the kitchen of Arzak, their three-Michelin starred family restaurant. Juan Mari Arzak is known as the father of contemporary Basque cuisine.)

Which is the most interesting food symposium you have attended in the last few years?

There are great culinary events worldwide. Perhaps those events located in rich environmental proposals, whether kitchens or markets, are especially remembered. It happens when you go to a meeting in Japan or Peru, for example. An event out of the ordinary, because the conversations about cuisine are minimum is “Diálogos de Cocina” (it is one of the most interesting that I remember) with takes place biannually in San Sebastian.

Do you plan to open multiple restaurants locally or overseas?

Mugaritz will celebrate its 15th anniversary this March and there has been no year in which we have not received proposals to open other restaurants around the world. We like to do things right and enjoy the process. Right now our priority is to consolidate our presence in the Hotel Abadía Retuerta Le Domaine in Valladolid. It is an idyllic place, an oasis of beauty and tranquillity.

Being one of the leading food personalities in the culinary world, do you feel a sense of responsibility regarding the direction that food will take in the future?

In some ways, I would say yes because the future is built by all of us in the present so, our actions are crucial. I hate to be alarmist but it is vital to understand that the rate at the world is advancing can lead to a barren landscape, speaking about culinary landscape, if we do not protect cultural and biological ecosystems. It is very sad to see how information technologies have advanced so much in a few years and we are not able to eradicate world hunger.

Would like your family members to follow you into the culinary world?

Not particularly. I try that my family live in a quality gastronomic environment, understanding that the cuisine and food is an important part of our cultural and emotional landscape, and this is directly related to health and wellness. If my son internalizes this, I will feel satisfied.

What would be your ideal vacation?

Quiet, in a calm place with my family where I can go unnoticed, where no one knows me.

What is your comfort food?

A good selection of cheese, good bread and wine.

What is your favorite meal that you like to cook for your family and friends?

It depends on the season of the year or where we are but I will say that I usually cook: peas “tear”, hake in green sauce, rice with fish or clams, squid in its ink, marmitako, tuna with tomato, peppers “cristal” roast etc. (I want to be at one these meals, Chef Aduriz please note!)

Lunch at the Gastronomika with Bansal and Aduriz

After a wonderful lunch he hosted at the end of the Gastronomika at the Kursaal restaurant Nineo, I said goodbye to this brilliant intellectual chef, looking forward to seeing him in a few months in California.


World's top chefs talk cuisine, creativity in Chicago

If the culinary world had a "Three Tenors"-like tour, it couldn't do much better than chefs Ferran Adria, Andoni Luis Aduriz and Grant Achatz — and the music likely would make your head spin.

Adria was the chef of Spain's El Bulli, which topped Restaurant magazine's "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list a record five times before he shuttered it in 2011. Aduriz worked in El Bulli's madly innovative kitchen in the early '90s before opening Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain, in 1998. (It's No. 4 on the 2013 Restaurant list.) Achatz was at El Bulli for a much shorter time, five days in 2000, yet the Chicago chef credits that experience as a transformative one, unlocking his creativity and putting him on the path toward his envelope-pushing Alinea (No. 15 on the 2013 Restaurant list after peaking at No. 6).

Since closing El Bulli, Adria has stepped up his work on the El Bulli Foundation, a culinary/creative think tank, as well as the Bullipedia, an attempt to do nothing less than codify the history of cuisines. Last Friday and Saturday he appeared at numerous events in Chicago, culminating in a presentation and signing of his new massive seven-volume set "elBulli 2005-2011" ($625, Phaidon) Saturday at Balena.

Aduriz, who was in town to participate in a couple of events with Moto chef Homaro Cantu, and Achatz sat down with their mentor/friend before Achatz introduced Adria at Balena. New York-based food writer Sofia Perez translated for Adria and Aduriz. The following is an edited transcript.

V: What has each of you learned the most from each other?

Adria: I learned about the passion and (belief) in a project. They're two of the few chefs who put the project ahead of the money. It's very rare. The only other project I knew that was like that was El Bulli, where the project was more important. It's magical that there are people that think that way.

Achatz: For me it's having the opportunity to be a part of gastronomy at a time when it is at its most creative. Whether it be music or painting, you go through long periods of a plateau, but it's very rare that you're in the moment where you're a part of or being influenced by something so significant. Like 20 years ago, people were cooking all the same, for the most part, but then along comes this shift and this super-creative moment where it fuels all the young cooks that were influenced by it, and it changes gastronomy significantly. It's really awesome to be a part of that period and to get the confidence watching people be so successful at taking risks and literally changing a field.

Adria: El Bulli was created by 2,000 people that passed through it. And we didn't know that something big was happening. It was like a game in a way. You didn't really know how it was going to end up, and people who would leave, they would take a piece of it with them, but they would leave another piece behind.

Aduriz: From Ferran I've learned everything. For me El Bulli was a school for talent. And if you look at the list of the most influential chefs in the world today, the ones that are doing different things or are trying to do different things, they're all sons and daughters of El Bulli or in some indirect form. If I didn't pass through El Bulli, I wouldn't be doing what I do today.

Adria: These are two of the chefs I admire the most in the world. Everybody knows it. I admire them for what they do because each day they try to create their own style. It's very difficult, very difficult. What we did among all of us together at El Bulli is be ethical, honest, share and take risks and have passion. They represent that as well.

Aduriz: I need references in my life, people that help me to be better. I value not just the creative part of him he's someone who brings a lot to the world personally. I think what I most value is not just what he does, which is very important in his own right, but the way he does it. It is incredible to me. I value the way he is even-keeled, looking at the long-term picture. That's incredible for me. He's number one for me, not just for what he does, but because of this crazy profession, we need people who are whole and grounded.

Adria: Some of the young people are worrying me. It's the best generation in history because they have training, but the values that I listed before, it's hard for them, and it's not entirely their fault. It's the system. …People today want to be Grant and Andoni in two years. They want to reach that level (quickly), and that's not the way it is.

Q: How important is to pass along the knowledge of how and why you've done what you've done?

Adria: We opened El Bulli there were no secrets there. The recipes were not secret. Anybody who came, the recipes were there for them. This was unthinkable then.

Achatz: I remember all of my meals at El Bulli and Mugaritz definitively. They were career-changing for me. I feel like the media focuses on certain things like techniques. I remember eating at Mugaritz last time and the dried fern that looked like a vanilla bean, right? Mind-blowing. The techniques that El Bulli established and created — mind-blowing. But it's not about those things. The bigger picture is how it's influenced the world of cooking. Tonight if you ate at Boka or if you ate at Naha or even if you ate at Publican, they're utilizing influences from these guys. It's trickled all the way down to gastropubs, which is amazing.

Adria: Egotistically what you've done yesterday is no longer important. You can share it. There was a part of it, a will to share, but then you say, "Well, it doesn't matter because it's already past." We created a philosophy that was transmitted to share.

Q: What can food still do that it's not doing yet?

Adria: (Get) organized — to order things. More has been created in 20 years than in all of history. Who knew Peruvian cuisine outside of Peru? Who knew Japan 20 years ago outside of Japan? In the last 20 years, new techniques, new concepts, new elaborations, styles — a lot of it's not documented. . We have to also order instructions. If we do that, and we understand what we're doing, we're going to create differently. Maybe it opens our minds to do it in a different way because our generation, we had the good luck and the misfortune to take cooking to the limit. To go to Alinea or Mugaritz, it's an experience. It's not about just going to eat. This experience is on one side. If you go off the edge, it's not cooking anymore, so you have to push it to the limit. What are the limits?"

Achatz: Right, what are the limits?

Aduriz: Antonio Damasio is a neuroscientist, one of the most important ones in the world. He said, "You people are very creative, but the most important thing about your work is that you make the diners creative." What that means is through an activity, the person who receives that activity develops a value like creativity. . It makes you much more conscious to other attributes, more aware of other values and attributes. Eating, you can be very, very aware of many things. The value of sensibility, the value of sustainability, in many different forms — you cultivate that in people. Those are frontiers that I'm interested in.

Achatz: The exciting thing is that we know that because of the steps that have already been taken, there is no ceiling. Again, 20 years ago we would have never thought that we could do what we're doing now, and that fuels the confidence and the thinking to do other things. I don't know what they are, Andoni might not know what they are, but the fact that the potential to get there exists is exciting.

Adria: The person who's receiving the food cooks as much as the chef. They have a very important role to play. When you get to a very high level of cuisine, it's really emotional….Unless you have incredible works of art that stand on their own, the most experiential place for a person who receives is a restaurant, like Mugaritz and Alinea. And it can seem pretentious to say that, but it's true. There's no other activity that the person who receives it can destroy the work, can participate in how it's being done. It's emotional. Sometimes journalists are going to have to start talking more about the diners than the chefs.

Adria: It's true. I've seen very few interviews of diners, people who eat, in this particular context. When they bring the dish, why do they eat it a certain way and not another? And they listen to what's being told or not. This is the path that started 20 years ago. But we didn't really know quite well. We didn't realize it. We're doing it every day we're creating every day. We said it, but the relationship with the diner, with the chef, it's the great revolution.

Q: Is it important for diners and everyday people to receive this knowledge that you're passing on?

Adria: No, no, no, no, no. The diner has to be moved. And then they will decide how much knowledge they want. You can go to MOMA. I can go and study Cubism. And when I see (Picasso's) "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon," I can get on my knees. Or I can go there and look around and walk in front of it. You might not stop in MOMA for that painting because you might not know what it signifies. But you're going to decide, an individual decides, not because of whether you know it or not. So the diner doesn't have the obligation to do this. Emotions they can say what they want, but if they opine on this, on their knowledge, that's when problems start. (lag)

Q: Do you think where food goes will be more about discovering new techniques or new ingredients?

Adria: New products will be easier. There are a lot of products still to be discovered in the world and experimentation, for example with seafood and fish. There are thousands of products that we're not eating right now that maybe will be cultivated in a good agriculture situation, a sustainable, ecological way. Maybe there will be textures or flavors we hadn't even thought of. In the Amazon there are 400 fruits that are not cultivated right now. They're just incredible fruits. Textures, tastes that we don't know right now. New basic techniques are going to be harder to create. We can create techniques, but it will be a sum total of previous techniques that already existed, so there'll be new combinations, but a new basic technique is going to be very difficult because this generation has done so much. ….If you look at painting, in the last 50 years, there's hardly been any new technique. There's thousands of painters in the world that have all the time in the world thinking about these techniques.

Aduriz: Asking the necessary questions, that's what I want. For the same result, a different way of seeing it changes the whole perspective….We have to intend to ask the right questions, understanding that there will be some techniques that are new. We might see them as if they are new letters to write some stories, tell stories. If you allow me the metaphor, it's what kind of discussion do we want to have? . We need to start asking the right questions over the same subjects. Suddenly it's a disruptive discourse.

Adria: For example this is very important what we're doing now. There's no model to get together. Knowledge at this level is in few hands. We have to look for a model, so we can have a few days together, because imagine gathering 20 people at this level. There's no model for it now, because conferences are kind of passé at this point.

Achatz: We talk about this all the time at Alinea. Imagine if you had the group of the right people in the room talking about this. You'd further it so much. We just don't have that opportunity. Maybe with the foundation that will become possible.

Q: Will you reopen El Bulli or cook again?

Adria: I cook every day. If you understand cooking only as a physical process, then you don't understand cooking.


Kyk die video: MUGARITZ BSO at Edinburgh Spanish Film Festival with Andoni Aduriz (Oktober 2021).