Nuwe resepte

'N Mediterreense fees vir 'n saak saam met Paula Wolfert

'N Mediterreense fees vir 'n saak saam met Paula Wolfert

Paula Wolfert is een van die vrugbaarste en mees gerespekteerde kookboekskrywers van ons era. Toe haar eerste poging, Couscous en ander goeie kos uit Marokko, is rustig gepubliseer, in 1973, het die meeste Amerikaners niks geweet van Marokkaanse kos nie, en ons was ook nie gewoond aan kookboeke wat resepte met aanloklike lewensvignette in hul vakgebied en opmerkings oor persoonlike ontdekkingservarings inblaas nie. Hierdie dinge het vandag algemeen geword, maar Wolfert was 'n pionier in die genre. (Die boek bly in druk sedert dit aanvanklik verskyn het.)

Sy het natuurlik nie daar gestop nie, maar het 'n reuse -boek gemaak oor die kombuis van die oostelike Middellandse See (insluitend nie net Griekeland en Turkye nie, maar ook Georgië, Sirië en Jordanië), 'n definitiewe volume op die kook in die suidweste van Frankryk en vyf ander kookboeke, met 'n afname van 2011 Die kos van Marokko, wat begin het met die opdatering van haar oorspronklike boek, maar uitgegroei het tot 'n heeltemal nuwe werk, met nuwe aandag gevestig op hierdie wonderlike en gevarieerde kookkuns.

Soos baie mense soos hulle ouer word, het Wolfert, wat nou 75 is, 'n paar jaar gelede begin om woorde te verloor en klein daaglikse besonderhede te vergeet - en in 2011, terwyl sy met haar laaste boek toer, besef sy dat sy dit nie meer kon onthou nie lang vrae van onderhoudvoerders goed genoeg om dit te beantwoord. Die volgende jaar, op die punt om middagete vir haar man te kook, kon sy skielik nie onthou hoe om 'n omelet te maak nie. Sy het na dokters gegaan en toetse ondergaan, en laat verlede jaar is MCI of ligte kognitiewe inkorting gediagnoseer - 'n vroeë stadium van Alzheimer se siekte.

Wolfert het gevolglik opgehou skryf en kooklesse aangebied (alhoewel sy steeds ingestem het om lid te word van Die Daily Meal Council), en het haar pogings eerder toegewy aan Alzheimer se aktivisme.

Hierdie 27 April, van 12:00 tot 16:00, is Wolfert eregas by 'n geldinsameling, Mediterreense fees, in Los Angeles ten bate van die Alzheimer -vereniging. Die voedselgemeenskap het saamgestem om hierdie geliefde kookkuns en haar saak te ondersteun. Onder die sjefs wat deelgeneem het vir die geleentheid, gereël deur die sjefs Susan Park en Farid Zadi, en wat in die kafee in die sentrum van Sarkis Vartanian gehou sal word, Die daaglikse dosis, sal Nancy Silverton en Matt Molina van Osteria Mozza, Mary Sue Milliken van die Border Grill, Susan Feniger van Modder Hen Tavern, en Kris Yenbamroong van NAG+MARK. Veilingsitems sal kookboeke, kookklasse en etes insluit soos Mario Batali, José Andrés, Daniel Patterson, Suzanne Goin en die James Beard Foundation.

Die middag bevat 'n tagine-kookdemonstrasie en 'n kosstasie-spyskaart met sulke Marokkaanse en andersins mediterrane lekkernye, soos gebakte lam, porchetta, paella, bouillabaisse, bisteeya, konyn met bewaarde pere en gemmer, eend met groen olywe en herbes de Provence, Berber groente-koeskoes, en gebraaide blomkool met dennepitte en rosyne.

Intussen het Falafill, 'n mediterrane toebroodjie en mezze-operasie in Chicago, 'n program van stapel gestuur om sjefs van regoor die land uit te nooi om resepte in te dien vir 'n falafel wrap, wat dan deur die ketting se eenhede vervaardig sal word. , met die opbrengs aan die Alzheimer -vereniging in Wolfert se naam.

Wolfert het haar nuwe rol omhels met al die entoesiasme wat sy vroeër gebring het oor die ondersoek en toets en skryf oor al die wonderlike resepte. 'Ek is nog steeds dieselfde persoon', het sy in Desember aan ons geskryf. "Miskien net 'n bietjie meer eksentriek."


'N Mediterreense fees vir 'n rede saam met Paula Wolfert - Resepte

Jare lank kom dekades sjefs jaarliks ​​bymekaar by gasheerrestaurante om saam te werk aan unieke, veelgangmaaltye. Die sjefkombinasies kan duiselingwekkend wees. Verlede week was Amanda Baumgarten van Waypoint Public byvoorbeeld die gasheer vir Chad White (Común), Joe Magnanelli (Cucina Urbana), Matt Gordon (Solace Restaurants) en haar eie Jenn Reinhart.

Dit alles, onder die vaandel van Chef Celebration, om beursfondse in te samel vir jong aspirant-sjefs om 'n week lange kursus in Napa by te woon. Hoe belangrik is hierdie kursusse? In 16 jaar het tientalle sjefs in San Diego dit bygewoon en u het heerlik geëet, dink Hanis Cavin van Carnitas Snack Shack, Victor Jimenez van Cowboy Star, Denise Roa van die Art Institute en El Lugar de Nos, en Llasa Landry van Lion's Deel en binnekort Heart & amp Trotter Butcher.

Vanjaar se sjefviering kulmineer Sondagmiddag met die vierde jaarlikse sjefviering -ambagsman- en handwerkbierfees by Stone Brewing World Bistro and Gardens in Liberty Station. Van 12:00 tot 15:00 geniet u 12 geregte van 12 sjefs en handgemaakte bierparings. Hier is die ongelooflike reeks:

Stone Brewing World Bistro & amp Gardens – Liberty Station: sjef Tom Connolly

  • Spek Gremolata gebraaide gestroopte eier, frisee en aspersieslaai saam met Stone Liberty Station Witty Moron

The Wild Thyme Company: Chef Dawn Parks

  • Geroosterde skaapboud, gevul met Spaanse chorizo, aalbessies en switsbiet, bedruip met verouderde sjerrie -asyn en EVOO / geroosterde sprietuie, verkoolde uieblare, romesco / Patatas Bravas in pittige tamatiesous saam met Stone Smoke Porter met Chipotle Pepper

Sycuan Casino & amp Resort / Bakery Sadie Rose

Waypoint Public: Sjef Amanda Baumgarten

  • Baby Crab Cake Benedict op 'n krakelingbroodjie met 'n gerookte tamatie hollandiase gepaard met Matt ’s Burning Rosids
  • Gerookte heilbot, gesnyde uie, eiergeel, konfetti -mikrogroente en patatvinaigrette saam met Stone Saison
  • Hop-geneesde varkvleis-ingelegde Fresno Chili, quinoa-slaai, gerookte paprika-vinaigrette, gekombineer met Stone Sublimely Self-Rright Black IPA

Encore Champagne Bar & amp eetkamer: sjef Ryan Studebaker

  • Hiramasa crudo: Bloed -lemoen, dragon, avokado, hazelnoot en gerookte sout saam met Cali Belgique verouder in rooiwynvate
  • Ricotta en Fava bean angolotti – fava tedrils, groen knoffel, Genovese basiliekruid, Toskaanse vark ragu gepaard met Hess Habitus Rye IPA

Monkey Paw: sjef Karen Blair

Carnitas Snack Shack: sjef Hanis Cavin

  • BBQ -baba -ribbes/ Ivan ’s BBQ -sous/ spek aartappelslaai saam met Smog City Brewing Saber Toothed Squirrel
  • Geroosterde wilde sampioene, grane van anson -meulens, gegrilde oprit -vinaigrette, parmesaankuim, gekombineer met Rip Current Rip Ryeder Red Session IPA
  • Swaardvis -spekskyfie met volgraan -aioli, gepekelde ui en koriander op soetrolletjies saam met Societe The Widow

Chef Celebration Foundation: Samewerking van ontvangers van beurse

Kaartjies kos slegs $ 55 en kan aanlyn gekoop word by stonelibertystation.com. Sien jou daar!


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Hierdie boek gee die ambisieuse Amerikaanse huiskok al die inligting wat nodig is om 'n ongelooflike heerlike Marokkaanse maaltyd te maak. Van die nege resepte wat ek gemaak het in die maand wat ek dit besit het, agt-die amandeldrank, die komkommer- en lemoenswaterslaai, die fyngemaakte gekruide wortelslaai, die basiese koeskoesresep, die hoender-tagine met appelkose en denne neute, die hoender wat in tamatiekonfyt gesmelt is, die lamsvleis-tagine met geroosterde amandels en hardgekookte eiers en die kekerertjie-lensiesop met die lekkerder smaak, genaamd harira-kan ons dit môre weer 'wonderlik' maak? Die laaste een, 'n wortelslaai met komyn, kaneel en soet paprika, was redelik goed, maar gegewe al die ander wonderlike resepte in hierdie boek, sal ek dit waarskynlik nie weer haal nie.

Om hierdie boek te gebruik, moet u, indien nodig, gereed wees om die vorige dag te begin-aangesien baie resepte 'n paar stappe moet doen, soos kekerertjies of oornagmeel met suurlemoensap fermenteer. U kan baie van wat u benodig by 'n gewone supermark koop, maar die resepte is beter as u die advies oor bestanddele aan die begin van die boek volg. Me. Wolfert beveel byvoorbeeld vir baie geregte Ceylon-kaneel aan, 'n sagter weergawe van die spesery as die standaard Amerikaanse weergawe wat ek op Amazon gekoop het, en dit is heerlik. As jy regtig ambisieus is, kan jy jou eie bewaarde suurlemoene maak. wat 'n maand voordat dit gereed is, marineer.

Die instruksies is meestal gedetailleerd en duidelik. Die boek kon in sommige dele baat by die toets van gebruikers. Soms is daar onduidelike kolle-moet die tagine byvoorbeeld bedek wees of nie? Een verwarrende plek in die Tangier-styl Harira-resep, byvoorbeeld, is die instruksie om beesvleismurgbene en gesnyde lamsvleis in 'n diep pot te sit "sonder ekstra vet, bedek en stoom oor medium-lae hitte." Die gebruik van die woord "stoom" het my aanvanklik verbaas. moes ek 'n stoomboot gebruik? Voeg vloeistof by? Ek het 'n raaisel daaroor gehad met 'n vriendin wat 'n professioneel opgeleide sjef was, maar eers was sy ook verward, en toe het sy my uiteindelik gesê om dit net op medium-lae te kook en in sy eie sappe te laat stoom. Dit het puik gewerk. Maar as hierdie resep deur die gebruiker getoets is, sou hierdie sin waarskynlik duideliker gewees het.

Dit is 'n klein twyfel en ek gee net om, want hierdie boek is so goed dat ek al die resepte wil maak. Maar vir diegene wat die voor- en nadele van hierdie boek deeglik oorweeg, hier is 'n paar ander kritiek-en gesamentlik die hoofrede waarom ek 'n ster afgeskakel het. My werklike gradering is ongeveer 4,5!

1. ** Te ryk en vleis swaar: ** Die resepte is skeef vir diegene met baie vleis-ten koste van ewe outentieke en heerlike "armer" geregte. Dit is waar dat Marokkane vleis liefhet, en op feesdae en in spoggerige restaurante sal die geregte groot vleissnitte wees met sous of groente as versiering. Maar tydens die huiskos het ek by vriende se huise geëet, en in werkersrestaurante is 'n tagine dikwels 'n klein stuk vleis wat in groente versmoor is. Sommige van my gunstelinge was groot groente en aartappels, met 'n klein stukkie vleis daaronder. My vriende het my geleer dat as jy 'n tagine met ander aan tafel deel, eers die groente eet, die vleis blootstel-en dan word die klein stukkie in gelyke dele verdeel, sodat almal 'n happie kry. Ek hou van hierdie 'armer' styl, en ek dink ook dit is gesonder. Ek sou graag ten minste 'n paar van hierdie groente-ryk tagine-resepte wou sien. Die boek het 'n paar groente-slegs tagines, maar geen waar vleis in 'n rolprent voorkom nie.

2. ** Te min praktiese foto's/te veel prettige foto's ** Hierdie boek van meer as 500 bladsye is vol pragtige kleurfoto's, sodat u dit weet, swaar genoeg om in 'n knippie vir biceps -krulle te gebruik. Maar paradoksaal genoeg het baie resepte nie foto's van die finale produk nie. Byvoorbeeld, in die pluimvee -hoofstuk bevat slegs tien van die 29 resepte foto's wat wys hoe die gereg lyk wanneer dit klaar is. Dit was 'n goeie artistieke keuse, wat die skrywer in staat gestel het om pragtige verspreidings van National Geographic-styl van Marokko ten toon te stel, wat ek moet erken dat dit 'n beter koffietafelboek is as foto's van hoenderstyl A, hoenderstyl B, ens. Maar ek is gulsig hierin net vir die eetgoed-en ek wil elke resep sien sodat ek kan besluit of ek dit wil maak.

3. ** Vars tamaties? Asseblief. Laat ons hier realisties wees. ** 'n Baie groot aantal resepte vereis vars tamaties. Maar tensy dit somer is en u u eie tuin het of toegang tot 'n boeremark het, sal die tamaties wat u kry, smaaklose, plastiese, geïndustrialiseerde bolle wees wat groen gepluk en gasvormig is om hulle rooi te laat lyk voordat hulle op die winkelrakke geplaas word. As jy my nie glo nie, lees die boek TomatoLand. In elk geval, gegewe hierdie hartseer werklikheid, moes mev. Wolfert erken het dat ingemaakte tamaties eintlik beter kan wees en ons vertel hoeveel ons moet gebruik. In sommige resepte gee die skrywer koppies tamaties gesny, wat dit moontlik maak om te vervang, maar in ander resepte gebruik sy pond vars tamaties as maatstaf, wat dit moeilik maak om te weet hoeveel ingemaakte tamaties jy moet gebruik. Ek het ingemaakte San Marzano -pruimtamaties in die hoender vervang met 'n tamatiekonfytresep met uitstekende resultate, maar ek was baie bekommerd oor hoeveel om te gebruik en het later weer 'n pot konfyt gemaak. (Let wel: ten minste een resep, die tamatie- en kapperslaai, moet duidelik met ongelooflike tamaties in die seisoen gemaak word. Ek praat net oor die gaar geregte.)

4. ** Kortpaaie. Watter kortpaaie? ** Een van die dinge wat ek van hierdie boek hou, is dat dit die lang pad gee om alles te doen as dit die beste manier is. En baie van die tyd begin ek graag die vorige dag of vier uur lank aandete kook. Maar op dae wat ek nie is nie, kan u my asseblief 'n kortpad gee. soos die geringste van die euwels? Byvoorbeeld, vir die Harira laat mevrou Wolfert u kekerertjies minstens tien uur lank week en dit dan skil (deur dit met 'n deegroller oor te loop). Resultate was skouspelagtig. Maar as ek net Dinsdagmiddag beplan vir wat ek Dinsdagaand eet, kan ons 'n kortpad kry-soos wenke oor hoe om ingemaakte kekerertjies in die resep te sit? En as ek die hoender nie oornag kan marineer nie, sal vier of vyf uur die ding doen?

5. ** Geen Harissa -resep nie. Regtig? ** Toegegee dat Harissa, hierdie pittige chili-knoffelpasta, eintlik uit die buurlande kom en in Marokko gewild geword het. En dit is ook waar dat geen Marokkaan wat ek ken dit werklik maak nie, want dit is goedkoop en vars en heerlik op jou hoeksoek. Maar ek het nie 'n hoeksoek nie, en alhoewel, kan ek dit in Boston vind of dit per pos bestel by een van die bronne wat in haar boek verskyn, maar dit is vinniger om dit te doen as om oral in die stad te gaan-en gegewe die kwaliteit wat hier beskikbaar is, waarskynlik beter en varser. So, waarom sê mevrou Wolfert (wat ons die verste pad kan gee) vir u eenvoudig om voorafgemaakte Harissa-pasta te gebruik? Sy het wel 'n resep vir Harissa wat op die internet beskikbaar is, maar het verkies om dit nie in hierdie boek op te neem nie. Pffft.

En na al hierdie kritiek, sal ek nog een ding byvoeg waarvan ek hou. Me Wolfert gee 'n resep vir tuisgemaakte tamatiepasta wat sy "Tomato Magic" noem. Neem sondroogde tamaties en sit dit in 'n voedselverwerker met 'n fles tamaties van goeie gehalte, en kook dan 'n halfuur totdat die kleur en geur verdiep. Eerlik, ek het gedink dit sal meer seer wees as wat dit die moeite werd is, maar eintlik is dit absoluut heerlik. En ek is mal oor haar idee om die oorskiet in eetlepels vol op 'n koekie te vries en dit dan af te skrap en in 'n rits te vries. Dit is beter as kommersiële tamatiepasta en dit los die irriterende probleem op om 'n blikkie tamatiepasta oop te maak elke keer as ek 'n eetlepel vol benodig en die res tot niet gaan!

In die algemeen is dit 'n wonderlike boek en ek kan nie wag om alles daarin te maak nie. Terwyl ek ander resepte probeer, sal ek by hierdie pos voeg.

GEREDIGEER MET UPDATES op 31 Augustus 2014:

Byna 1,5 jaar nadat ek hierdie boek gekoop het, gebruik ek dit steeds gereeld, en ek het nou meer as 30 van sy resepte gemaak. My vaardigheidsvlak het toegeneem, en ek het die gewoonte om altyd basiese bestanddele voor te berei-soos tamatie magie, kama speserye mengsel, ens. Daarom vind ek baie van die resepte redelik maklik. In vergelyking met ander kookboeke wat u kan tref of mis, het hierdie een 'n uitstekende prestasie by my: alles wat ek gemaak het, was ten minste baie goed, en ten minste die helfte van die resepte hier is vir my baie uitsonderlik.

'N Dosyn van die resepte hierin word gereeld in my huishouding gewild, waaronder die wonderlike Aubergine Zaalouk-koue slaai, die komkommer-oreganoslaai met olywe, die oranje-romaine okkerneut slaai, die koeskoes (met goue rosyne en amandels), vis charmoula, die gebakte rooi snapper of seebaars met amandelpasta en lamskefta tagine met tamaties en eiers. Die hoender-appelkoos-tagine, wat aan die bokant van die resensie genoem word, het gereeld op my etenstafel verskyn, en ek maak ook gereeld baie van die maklike platbroodjies in die boek, en my gunsteling is die brood met sesam- en anysaad.

Dit is verfrissend om met 'n boek te werk waar ek vooraf weet dat die resultate goed sal wees, selfs al is dit die eerste keer dat ek 'n resep maak. Ek het probleme ondervind (veral kosmetiese produkte) met 'n klein aantal resepte. 'N Voorbeeld is die gebakte vis met amandelpasta. U moet 'n hele vis met 'n mooi amandelpasta versier voordat u dit bak. In teorie moet dit met 'n spatel gedoen word. Dit werk op geen manier vir my nie. Miskien is ek 'n kluts, maar ek eindig met so 'n lelike, onaangename ontwerp dat ek dit net glad maak om 'n laag amandelpasta te maak. En ook, om 'n hele vis aan verskeie mense te bedien as dit met amandelpasta in my hande bedek is, eindig steeds as 'n gemors. Maar dit is 'n heerlike gemors en tot dusver het ek dit twee keer gemaak. Miskien sal ek teen die vierde of vyfde keer uitvind hoe dit nie 'n gemors kan wees nie. Maar kortliks, al die resepte in hierdie boek is ten minste heerlik. 'n paar is net 'n bietjie moeilik, so jy moet 'n bietjie avontuur geniet!

Ek wil ook daarop let dat, terwyl ek hierbo kla dat daar geen 'swak' tagines met 'n klein hoeveelheid vleis hierbo is nie, ek wel ontdek het dat die boek drie groentegeregte bevat (nie streng tagines nie) met 'n klein hoeveelheid vleis in hulle bely. Ek het sopas die eerste een gemaak, lensies met switswaai, botterskorsie en vleiskonfyt. Dit is absoluut verstommend en sal waarskynlik weer die kort lysie van die dinge wat ek maak, maak.


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Mees nuttige klantbeoordelings op Amazon.com

Hierdie boek gee die ambisieuse Amerikaanse huiskok al die inligting wat nodig is om ongelooflike heerlike Marokkaanse maaltye te maak. Van die nege resepte wat ek gemaak het in die maand wat ek dit besit het, agt-die amandeldrank, die komkommer- en lemoenswaterslaai, die fyngemaakte gekruide wortelslaai, die basiese koeskoesresep, die hoender-tagine met appelkose en denne neute, die hoender wat in tamatiekonfyt gesmelt is, die lamsvleis-tagine met geroosterde amandels en hardgekookte eiers en die kekerertjie-lensiesop met die lekkerder smaak, genaamd harira-kan ons dit môre weer 'wonderlik' maak? Die laaste een, 'n wortelslaai met komyn, kaneel en soet paprika, was redelik goed, maar gegewe al die ander wonderlike resepte in hierdie boek, sal ek dit waarskynlik nie weer haal nie.

Om hierdie boek te gebruik, moet u, indien nodig, gereed wees om die vorige dag te begin-aangesien baie resepte 'n paar stappe moet doen, soos kekerertjies of oornagmeel met suurlemoensap fermenteer. U kan baie van wat u benodig by 'n gewone supermark koop, maar die resepte is beter as u die advies oor bestanddele aan die begin van die boek volg. Me. Wolfert beveel byvoorbeeld vir baie geregte Ceylon-kaneel aan, 'n sagter weergawe van die spesery as die standaard Amerikaanse weergawe wat ek op Amazon gekoop het, en dit is heerlik. As jy regtig ambisieus is, kan jy jou eie bewaarde suurlemoene maak. wat 'n maand voordat dit gereed is, marineer.

Die instruksies is meestal gedetailleerd en duidelik. Die boek kon in sommige dele baat by die toets van gebruikers. Soms is daar onduidelike kolle-moet die tagine byvoorbeeld bedek wees of nie? Een verwarrende plek in die Tangier-styl Harira-resep, byvoorbeeld, is die instruksie om beesvleismurgbene en gesnyde lamsvleis in 'n diep pot te sit "sonder ekstra vet, bedek en stoom oor medium-lae hitte." Die gebruik van die woord "stoom" het my aanvanklik verbaas. moes ek 'n stoomboot gebruik? Voeg vloeistof by? Ek het 'n raaisel daaroor gehad met 'n vriendin wat 'n professioneel opgeleide sjef was, maar eers was sy ook verward, en toe het sy my uiteindelik gesê om dit net op medium-lae te kook en in sy eie sappe te laat stoom. Dit het puik gewerk. Maar as hierdie resep deur die gebruiker getoets is, sou hierdie sin waarskynlik duideliker gewees het.

Dit is 'n klein twyfel en ek gee net om, want hierdie boek is so goed dat ek al die resepte wil maak. Maar vir diegene wat die voor- en nadele van hierdie boek deeglik oorweeg, hier is 'n paar ander kritiek-en gesamentlik die hoofrede waarom ek 'n ster afgeskakel het. My werklike gradering is ongeveer 4,5!

1. ** Te ryk en vleis swaar: ** Die resepte is skeef vir diegene met baie vleis-ten koste van ewe outentieke en heerlike "armer" geregte. Dit is waar dat Marokkane vleis liefhet, en op feesdae en in spoggerige restaurante sal die geregte groot vleissnitte wees met sous of groente as versiering. Maar in die huiskos wat ek by vriende se huise geëet het, en in werkersrestaurante, is 'n tagine dikwels 'n klein stuk vleis wat in groente versmoor is. Sommige van my gunstelinge was groot groente en aartappels, met 'n klein stukkie vleis daaronder. My vriende het my geleer dat as jy 'n tagine met ander aan tafel deel, eers die groente eet, die vleis blootstel-en dan word die klein stukkie in gelyke dele verdeel, sodat almal 'n happie kry. Ek hou van hierdie 'armer' styl, en ek dink ook dit is gesonder. Ek sou graag ten minste 'n paar van hierdie groente-ryk tagine-resepte wou sien. Die boek het 'n paar groente-slegs tagines, maar geen waar vleis in 'n rolprent voorkom nie.

2. ** Te min praktiese foto's/te veel prettige foto's ** Hierdie boek van meer as 500 bladsye is vol pragtige kleurfoto's, sodat u dit weet, swaar genoeg om in 'n knippie vir biceps -krulle te gebruik. Maar paradoksaal genoeg het baie resepte nie foto's van die finale produk nie. Byvoorbeeld, in die pluimvee -hoofstuk bevat slegs tien van die 29 resepte foto's wat wys hoe die gereg lyk wanneer dit klaar is. Dit was 'n goeie artistieke keuse, wat die skrywer in staat gestel het om pragtige verspreidings van National Geographic-styl van Marokko ten toon te stel, wat ek moet erken dat dit 'n beter koffietafelboek is as foto's van hoenderstyl A, hoenderstyl B, ens. Maar ek is gulsig hierin net vir die eetgoed-en ek wil elke resep sien sodat ek kan besluit of ek dit wil maak.

3. ** Vars tamaties? Asseblief. Laat ons hier realisties wees. ** 'n Baie groot aantal resepte vereis vars tamaties. Maar tensy dit somer is en u u eie tuin het of toegang tot 'n boeremark het, sal die tamaties wat u kry, smaaklose, plastiese, geïndustrialiseerde bolle wees wat groen gepluk en gasvormig is om hulle rooi te laat lyk voordat hulle op die winkelrakke geplaas word. As jy my nie glo nie, lees die boek TomatoLand. In elk geval, gegewe hierdie hartseer werklikheid, moes mev. Wolfert erken het dat ingemaakte tamaties eintlik beter kan wees en ons vertel hoeveel ons moet gebruik. In sommige resepte gee die skrywer koppies tamaties gesny, wat dit moontlik maak om te vervang, maar in ander resepte gebruik sy pond vars tamaties as maatstaf, wat dit moeilik maak om te weet hoeveel ingemaakte tamaties jy moet gebruik. Ek het ingemaakte San Marzano -pruimtamaties in die hoender vervang met 'n tamatiekonfytresep met uitstekende resultate, maar ek was baie bekommerd oor hoeveel om te gebruik en het later weer 'n pot konfyt gemaak. (Let wel: ten minste een resep, die tamatie- en kapperslaai, moet duidelik gemaak word met ongelooflike tamaties gedurende die seisoen. Ek praat slegs oor die gaar geregte.)

4. ** Kortpaaie. Watter kortpaaie? ** Een van die dinge wat ek van hierdie boek hou, is dat dit die lang pad gee om alles te doen as dit die beste manier is. En baie van die tyd begin ek graag die vorige dag of vier uur lank aandete kook. Maar op dae wat ek nie is nie, kan u my asseblief 'n kortpad gee. soos die geringste van die euwels? Byvoorbeeld, vir die Harira laat mevrou Wolfert u kekerertjies minstens tien uur lank week en dit dan skil (deur dit met 'n deegroller oor te loop). Resultate was skouspelagtig. Maar as ek net Dinsdagmiddag beplan vir wat ek Dinsdagaand eet, kan ons 'n kortpad kry-soos wenke oor hoe om ingemaakte kekerertjies in die resep te sit? En as ek die hoender nie oornag kan marineer nie, sal vier of vyf uur die ding doen?

5. ** Geen Harissa -resep nie. Regtig? ** Toegegee dat Harissa, hierdie pittige chili-knoffelpasta, eintlik uit die buurlande kom en in Marokko gewild geword het. En dit is ook waar dat geen Marokkaanse wat ek ken dit werklik maak nie, want dit is goedkoop en vars en heerlik op jou hoeksoek. Maar ek het nie 'n hoeksoek nie, en alhoewel, kan ek dit in Boston vind of dit per pos bestel by een van die bronne wat in haar boek verskyn, maar dit is vinniger om dit te doen as om oral in die stad te gaan-en gegewe die kwaliteit wat hier beskikbaar is, waarskynlik beter en varser. Waarom sê mevrou Wolfert (wat ons die verste pad vir alles gee) dan net dat u voorafgemaakte Harissa-pasta moet gebruik? Sy het wel 'n resep vir Harissa wat op die internet beskikbaar is, maar het verkies om dit nie in hierdie boek op te neem nie. Pffft.

En na al hierdie kritiek, sal ek nog een ding byvoeg waarvan ek hou. Me Wolfert gee 'n resep vir tuisgemaakte tamatiepasta wat sy "Tomato Magic" noem. Neem sondroogde tamaties en sit dit in 'n voedselverwerker met 'n fles tamaties van goeie gehalte, en kook dan 'n halfuur totdat die kleur en geur verdiep. Eerlik, ek het gedink dit sou meer pyn wees as wat dit die moeite werd is, maar eintlik is dit absoluut heerlik. En ek is mal oor haar idee om die oorskiet in eetlepels vol op 'n koekie te vries en dit dan af te skrap en in 'n rits te vries. Dit is beter as kommersiële tamatiepasta en dit los die irriterende probleem op om 'n blikkie tamatiepasta oop te maak elke keer as ek 'n eetlepel vol benodig en die res tot niet gaan!

In die algemeen is dit 'n wonderlike boek en ek kan nie wag om alles daarin te maak nie. Terwyl ek ander resepte probeer, sal ek by hierdie pos voeg.

GEREDIGEER MET UPDATES op 31 Augustus 2014:

Byna 1,5 jaar nadat ek hierdie boek gekoop het, gebruik ek dit steeds gereeld, en ek het nou meer as 30 van sy resepte gemaak. My vaardigheidsvlak het toegeneem, en ek het die gewoonte om altyd basiese bestanddele voor te berei-soos tamatie magie, kama speserye mengsel, ens. Daarom vind ek baie van die resepte redelik maklik. In vergelyking met ander kookboeke wat u kan tref of mis, het hierdie een 'n uitstekende prestasie by my: alles wat ek gemaak het, was ten minste baie goed, en ten minste die helfte van die resepte hier is vir my baie uitsonderlik.

'N Dosyn van die resepte hierin word gereeld by my in die huishouding, insluitend die wonderlike Aubergine Zaalouk-koue slaai, die komkommer-oreganoslaai met olywe, die oranje-romaine okkerneut slaai, die koeskoes (met goue rosyne en amandels), vis charmoula, die gebakte rooi snapper of seebaars met amandelpasta en lam kefta tagine met tamaties en eiers. Die hoender-appelkoos-tagine, wat aan die bokant van die resensie genoem word, het gereeld op my etenstafel verskyn, en ek maak ook gereeld baie van die maklike platbroodjies in die boek, my gunsteling is die brood met sesam- en anysaad.

Dit is verfrissend om met 'n boek te werk waar ek vooraf weet dat die resultate goed sal wees, selfs al is dit die eerste keer dat ek 'n resep maak. Ek het probleme ondervind (veral kosmetiese produkte) met 'n klein aantal resepte. 'N Voorbeeld is die gebakte vis met amandelpasta. U moet 'n hele vis versier met 'n mooi amandelpasta voordat u dit bak. In teorie moet dit met 'n spatel gedoen word. Dit werk op geen manier vir my nie. Miskien is ek 'n kluts, maar ek eindig met so 'n lelike, onaangename ontwerp dat ek dit net glad maak om 'n laag amandelpasta te maak. En ook, om 'n hele vis aan verskeie mense te bedien as dit met amandelpasta in my hande bedek is, eindig steeds as 'n gemors. Maar dit is 'n heerlike gemors en tot dusver het ek dit twee keer gemaak. Miskien sal ek teen die vierde of vyfde keer uitvind hoe dit nie 'n gemors kan wees nie. Maar kortliks, al die resepte in hierdie boek is ten minste heerlik. 'n paar is net 'n bietjie moeilik, so jy moet 'n bietjie avontuur geniet!

Ek wil ook daarop let dat, terwyl ek hierbo kla dat daar geen 'swak' tagines met 'n klein hoeveelheid vleis hierbo is nie, ek wel ontdek het dat die boek drie groentegeregte bevat (nie streng tagines nie) met 'n klein hoeveelheid vleis in hulle bely. Ek het sopas die eerste een gemaak, lensies met switswaai, botterskorsie en vleiskonfyt. Dit is absoluut verstommend en sal waarskynlik weer die kort lysie van die dinge wat ek maak, maak.


Warm gekruide rooi Kuri -muurbal & lemoensop met kaneel Harissa

Het u die geleentheid gehad om die onlangse berig te lees: Eet. Boston. Winter muurbal sop.? Ek was so geïnspireer deur die winterpampoensop -skeppings wat ons in Oktober in Boston teëgekom het, dat ek nie kon wag om terug te keer na die OtherWorldly Kitchen om my eie aanbod aan die seisoenale gode te skep nie.

Ek het gekies om met Rooi Kuri -muurbal te werk, want van die hele winterpampoen is dit die een waarmee ek die minste vertroud is. Dit is pragtig of natuurlik en hou sy pragtige oranje kleur as dit gaar is.

Om die pampoen te braai, eerder as om dit te kook of te stoom, help om die geur te konsentreer. Om te braai, sny die pampoen in groot of klein stukke, soos u wil.

U moet uiteindelik 'n heerlike, pampoenpuree kry.

Dit sal lei tot 'n ewe weelderige sop met fluweel-tekstuur.

Warm gekruide rooi Kuri -muurbal en lemoensop met kaneel Harissa

Hierdie welige, syagtige sop is verfrissend met warm winterspeserye, heuning, lemoen en suurlemoen. Die heuning en suurlemoen gee 'n soet tert, terwyl dit kontrasterend is Kaneel Harissa, 'n mengsel van paprika, olie en verskillende speserye, voeg drama by. Dit is 'n smaakbasis vir kerrie en bredies, sowel as 'n spesery, in Libië, Tunisië, Algerië en Marokko, Volgens Midde -Ooste voedselkenner, Paula Wolfert. 'N Suurroom -garnering hou die verhemelte op hoogte van die laaste lepelvol.

1 groot kuri -muurbal
koudgeperste, ekstra suiwer olyfolie, om muurbal te bedek

4 koppies hoender- of groenteaftreksel, plus meer indien nodig
1 koppie vars lemoensap
¼ koppie veldblom heuning
2 eetlepels vars suurlemoensap
¼ teelepel gemaalde kaneel
¼ teelepel gemmer
¼ teelepel gemaalde speserye
¼ teelepel gemaalde neutmuskaat
fyn seesout, na smaak

Versier
1 meel tortilla, gesny in 1 x 8 duim vuurhoutjies
2 eetlepels ongesoute botter
gemaalde kaneel in 'n skudder

½ koppie Kaneel Harissa, verdun met 2 eetlepels koudgeperste, ekstra suiwer olyfolie, in 'n persbottel
½ koppie suurroom, verdun met 2 eetlepels room, in 'n drukbottel
fyn repies lemoenskil
gekapte koriander

  1. Berei die Kaneel Harissa, soveel as 'n paar dae vorentoe indien verlang. Bedek en verkoel.
  2. Sny die pampoen in die helfte en trek die sade uit. As jy wil, sny dit in kwarte of selfs kleiner stukke.
  3. Vryf die vleis met olyfolie om liggies te bedek.
  4. Rooster die pampoen met die vleeskant na onder by 425 ° tot sag, ongeveer 45 minute.
  5. Haal uit die oond en laat stol tot koel genoeg om te hanteer. Skep die vleis met 'n lepel uit. Gooi die skil weg. Jy moet ongeveer 1 pond 13 onse of 3½ koppies muurbal hê.
  6. Pureer die pampoen in 'n voedselverwerker tot glad.
  7. In 'n groot oondbak of soppot, kombineer die puree, hoenderaftreksel, lemoensap, heuning, suurlemoensap, kaneel, gemmer, peper en neutmuskaat. Klits om te kombineer.
  8. Laat die sop ongeveer 10-15 minute prut tot effens verminder, maar nie te dik nie. Geur na smaak met sout. Hou warm oor lae hitte. As die sop te dik word, dun met ekstra aftreksel.
  9. Om die tortilla -vuurhoutjies voor te berei, smelt die botter in 'n medium -stoofpan. Soteer die vuurhoutjies, draai gereeld totdat hulle goed bruin en bros is. Haal uit die pan met 'n gaatjieslepel en dreineer op papierhanddoeke. Sprinkel kaneel terwyl dit nog warm is.
  10. Om die sop voor te sit, skep in elke bak. Druk afwisselende, parallelle lyne van Kaneel Harissa en suurroom bo -op elke porsie. Trek 'n eetstokkie deur die lyne, eers in die een rigting, dan in die ander rigting. Dit sal 'n moiré -patroon skep. Versier elke porsie met 'n klein hopie skerp tortilla -vuurhoutjies en 'n bietjie lemoenskil en koriander.

Lewer ongeveer 6 koppies Lewer 3-4.

Meer LunaCafe -winterpampoentjies, patats en wortelsop

  • Winter Squash Primer
  • Kerrie -aartappel, gemmer en klapper -bisque
  • Heirloom Carrot Soup with Lemon Verbena, Spearmint & Garlic Gremolata
  • Pumpkin & Green Tomato Soup (coming soon)
  • Pumpkin & Green Tomato Vichyssoise (coming soon)
  • Smokin’ Hot Red Kuri Squash & Roasted Garlic Soup (coming soon)
  • Sweet Carrot Bisque with Umami Pesto
  • Warm Spiced Red Kuri Squash & Orange Soup with Cinnamon Harissa

Cookin’ with Gas (inspiration from around the web)

Copyright 2010 Susan S. Bradley. Alle regte voorbehou.

About Susan S. Bradley

Intrepid cook, food writer, culinary instructor, creator of the LunaCafe blog, author of Pacific Northwest Palate: Four Seasons of Great Cooking, and former director of the Northwest Culinary Academy.


Die Spice Garden

Paula Wolfert and I go back a ways . I first heard of her when I began using clay-pot techniques and pottery to make fish stews and tagine recipes a couple years back. I bought her cookbook Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking and never looked back. She has good solid instincts on writing recipes so that they are clear and sequenced nicely. I have read somewhere that that is one of her claims to fame . that, and her encyclopedic knowledge of the rustic cuisines of the Mediterranean cultures.

¼ c. dried cèpes or porcini
1 liter hoenderbouillon
Sout
6 to 8 ounces fresh porcini or Shitake mushrooms
2 eetlepels. Ekstra fynfilteerde olyfolie
¼ c. fyngekapte ui
3 eetlepels. finely chopped shallots
1 c. risotto rice, preferably Carnaroli
⅓ c. droë witwyn
¼ c. Italian Fontina cheese, cut into small cubes
1 eetlepel. ongesoute botter
½ tsp white truffle oil
Vars gemaalde swartpeper
Making the Dish:
1. Soak the dried cèpes or porcini in ½ c. very hot water for at least 30 minutes. Drain reserving the water. Rinse the re-constituted mushrooms under cool water and chop into small pieces. Strain the water they soaked in and add it to the chicken broth.

2. Wipe off the fresh mushrooms, trim off the stem butts, and slice them about ¼-inch thick.

3. Set a flameware casserole over medium heat on a heat diffuser and add the olive oil and onions and shallots to the pot. Bring the heat to a good temperature for sauté and cook the onions and shallots until they are golden and shiny.

4. Add the chopped cèpes, a pinch of salt and a couple tablespoons of the broth. Cook until the liquid has evaporated – 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook until the moisture has evaporated – about ten minutes.

6. Add the rice and toss to coat with the oils and juices, letting the rice toast lightly for 2 to 3 minutes.

7. Add the white wine and toss until the wine has absorbed.

8. Now add 1 cup of the simmering broth at a time, stirring frequently until it is almost absorbed. Then add another cup, and so on and so on until the risotto is puffed and the rice kernels have a soft bite with just a bit of firmness at their core.

9. Reduce the heat to low and add the cubed cheese, stirring to melt the cheese.

10. Add the white truffle oil and butter, stirring to incorporate the flavours and serve piping hot.


Vietnamese Home Cooking

But they offer more than goed lyk. They are highly functional, particularly for
slow-cooked geregte. . But even with these precautions, it's beste to use a clay pot
over no higher than medium heat, another reason why these beautiful pots are .

Uitgewer: Ten Speed Press

In his eagerly awaited first cookbook, award-winning chef Charles Phan from San Francisco's Slanted Door restaurant introduces traditional Vietnamese cooking to home cooks by focusing on fundamental techniques and ingredients. When Charles Phan opened his now-legendary restaurant, The Slanted Door, in 1995, he introduced American diners to a new world of Vietnamese food: robustly flavored, subtly nuanced, authentic yet influenced by local ingredients, and, ultimately, entirely approachable. In this same spirit of tradition and innovation, Phan presents a landmark collection based on the premise that with an understanding of its central techniques and fundamental ingredients, Vietnamese home cooking can be as attainable and understandable as American, French, or Italian. With solid instruction and encouraging guidance, perfectly crispy imperial rolls, tender steamed dumplings, delicately flavored whole fish, and meaty lemongrass beef stew are all deliciously close at hand. Abundant photography detailing techniques and equipment, and vibrant shots taken on location in Vietnam, make for equal parts elucidation and inspiration. And with master recipes for stocks and sauces, a photographic guide to ingredients, and tips on choosing a wok and seasoning a clay pot, this definitive reference will finally secure Vietnamese food in the home cook’s repertoire. Infused with the author’s stories and experiences, from his early days as a refugee to his current culinary success, Vietnamese Home Cooking is a personal and accessible guide to real Vietnamese cuisine from one of its leading voices.


My Five: Sexiest Proteins for a Dinner Party

Truly, I never met an ingredient I didn’t like, except maybe sea slugs. But that omnivorous ardor doesn’t mean I don’t have favorites. When I’m planning a dinner party, I always mentally summon up my protein faves (unless my vegan daughter is attending!), and start the menu planning from there.

Here they are, in no particular order:

1) Krap

The real-deal Maryland crab feast…at Costa’s, my favorite Baltimore-area crabhouse, in suburban Dundalk

I am generally in LOVE with shellfish, and it’s oh so hard to pick a fave. But I think the sweet, rich, haunting meat of the crab has got to get my vote. To me, there’s nothing better than finding a way to use whole, live crabs from the Chesapeake Bay, the southeast coast, and the Gulf of Mexico. My idea of crab heaven, of course, is going to a crabhouse in Baltimore, and picking the hours away with a bushel or two of spice-packed, steamed crabs. But you can make ’em at home for your guests, too. I also like simply boiling live crabs (unspiced!) on Saturday, stacking them on platters overnight in the refigerator, then serving them cold as a Sunday afternoon feast. If I can’t do the whole-crab thing, my next-best crab ingredient is refrigerated lump crabmeat (over $20/lb), which I can handle in a million ways: crab cakes, crab salad, crab-stuffed deviled eggs, crab gratin, French crepes stuffed with creamy crab, Indian crab and shrimp sautés with curry leaf, crab lumps tossed with linguine and garlic, etc. etc.

2) Kreef

An unforgettable lobster risotto made for me on my birthday a few years ago by Christian Delouvrier at La Mangeoire in New York City

Alright, alright…so I picked another shellfish item! (This list could well have had oysters and shrimp, too!) How does one decide? It is true that crabmeat causes fewer texture problems than lobster meat does…lobster can be stringy and tough…but the flavor of lobster, at its just-out-of-the-Maine-sea best, can be more intense than the flavor of crab. Purist that I am, I love nothing more, of course, than whole steamed lobsters (2-3 lbs. is my ideal weight), served only with melted butter, fresh coleslaw, and steaming ears of summer-sweet corn. Of course, I wouldn’t be adverse to adding a chilly mug of pilsener, or a super-cold bottle of dry German Riesling, preferably aged. But I love lobster meat as an ingredient, too, in-shell or out. I use lobster shells like crazy for pink French sauces. Lobster bisque. Lobster fra diavolo…wow! Lobster tacos! Lobster in a Cantonese or Sichuan stir-fry. Lobster with south Indian spices. Lobster forever!

3) Sea Urchin

An amazing combo, tasted just last week at Takashi in New York City, of nori, shiso leaf, raw beef, uni and wasabi

I had compartmentalized this ingredient, for a while: uni is the ultimate bite at a sushi meal, the item to which all other items lead. The topper. (It’s true that not everyone feels this way…but an amazing percentage of sushi-lovers do!) And I stil look to uni as my Mariano Rivera at the sushi bar. Some years ago, the field expanded for me…to other sushi-bar uni applications, never forgetting the great deep-fried uni-and-shiso roll that Nobu Matsuhisu introduced in Beverly Hills. And I followed suit by going uni-crazy in my amuses selection at dinner parties: nothing ennobles your first glass of Champagne like a blob of sea urchin on some fish or other. (My latest triumph, combining two of my loves: uni on a warm bite of lobster on a spoon with a touch of soy sauce and a tangle of micro-greens on top.) But then the walls really came down. After I started eating raw sea urchin (which is not actually roe…but gonads!) all around the Mediterranean, I started incorporating those fluffy, creamy intimations of heaven into a million things. Sea urchin pasta (as they do in Mondello, Sicily, with just a little tomato and garlic). Sea urchin risotto. Any seafood sauce of any kind, knocked out of the park with a few tablespoons of sea urchin blended in (you don’t even have to tell!). It’s true I haven’t gone sea-urchin/Mexican yet…but I’m thinking about it!

4) Foie gras

Can anything top in sensuality a perfectly prepared slice of foie gras terrine?

Oy. There are more controversies here than you can shake a stick at. First things first: I do not support the banning of foie gras in California, or anywhere else. I have seen the actual duck/goose feeding multiple times in SW France (le gavage), and the animals are treated with love, vastly enjoying their super-sized corn meals. As Paula Wolfert once said, “All things considered, I’d rather be a duck in Gascony than a Tyson chicken.” Astonishing revelation: I do live with the uneasy sense that perhaps we are all mad for killing animals and eating them. But I see no reason to say “Hamburgers are fine while foie gras is immoral.” That said (or unsaid), let me move on to the gastronomic controversy: foie gras chaud, or foie gras terrine? And how does this affect your dinner party? Most Americans came to foie gras through seared slices of it at fancy restaurants, starting in America in the 1980s. I am bonkers for the alchemy of warm foie gras (meat turned into quivering custard), and I often buy a whole foie gras to sear some for a dinner party (try fat cubes of it, sprinkled with Wondra, seared in duck fat for a minute or so, tossed with a well-dressed salad!) But, like many in France, I am ultimately a terrine man the length of that taste, as the cold terrine melts on your tongue, is unique in the world of fine dining. And for your dinner party, all you have to do is pick up the phone and order a terrine from D’artagnan. My advice: after you slice it, serve it simply. Don’t spoof it up with too many things. In other words, ignore the accompanying photo! Of course, if you really want to dazzle your gathering…buy raw liver instead, then give yourself over to the foie gras terrine recipe in the Robuchon book that was co-authored with Patricia Wells. Not too difficult…and positively wonderful! Just make sure there are no PETA people on your guest list!

A dazzling array of sausages at the main market in Oporto, Portugal

Aha! So you thought that at my dinner parties the main course is based on venison, filet of beef, rack of lamb, roast duck, huh? Well, yeah, sometimes it is. However, I always give sausages (great sausages…the kind you buy by mail-order) a good conceptual shot before I make the final choice. For, truth be told, the joy of cutting into a popping squirting casing of beautifully chopped and seasoned meat , for me, is usually greater than the joy of cutting into something merely primal. Cured French garlic sausage…or the Italian equivalent…or fresh Italian sausages with fennel for grilling. Spanish and Portuguese sausages, led by chorizo, headed to the stewpot. The orange-scented loukaniko of Greece. The astonishing variety of central European sausages…from German wurst, to Polish kielbasa. You want to know my idea of a good time? Order in six different weenies from Central European butchers, prepare a French-accented mound of sauerkraut, pile on the wurst, and bring a steaming platter of choucroute happiness to your guests. Hell, I even get excited about ONE great sausage—like an artisanal kielbasa, from the East Village Meat Market in New York City—boiled up with some cabbage and potatoes!


Moroccan Ras el Hanout

I’m in love with the flavors of Morocco: exotic spice blends, sensual floral notes, fruit and honey, briny olives, preserved lemons fiery Harissa moist, tender braises charcoal grilled kebabs, silky sauces, couscous.

If there’s one thing that is the hook for me though, it’s the spices. My family’s roots are Mennonite and in that culinary tradition, allspice, nutmeg, and cinnamon are associated with gingerbread and oatmeal cookies, not with chicken stew. There was no dish served in my childhood home that contained cumin. I didn’t taste cardamom until I was in my teens, and rose petals and lavender as flavorings came considerably later. I may have come late to the flavors of North Africa and the Middle East, but I am making up for it now.

This past Christmas, I worked up a formula for a fragrant North African-Middle Eastern spice blend called baharat, which includes a generous dose of fragrant spices—sweet paprika, black pepper, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and nutmeg. But instead of using the spice blend in a savory braise, I used it in Moon over Tunisia (Baharat) Cookies. The aroma and flavor were hauntingly evocative. After that success, I began playing around with a close relative of baharat–ras el hanout–which is reputed to be the soul of Moroccan cooking.

And what is the difference between baharat and ras el hanout? I will go out on a limb and say that although ras el hanout contains many of the same spices as baharat, it should not contain cumin or paprika. Paula Wolfert, renowned author of Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco, says it should also not contain fenugreek, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, or poppy seeds. Ras el hanout often contains 30 or more spices, however, some of them aphrodisiacs. The name means head-of-the-shop, and each spice shop owner crafts his own very special, closely guarded blend.

Nevertheless, the two blends can be quite similar, depending on the cook doing the concocting. This is especially true in commercial blends. If you plan to purchase a ready-made blend, be sure to check the ingredients on the jar. Why buy a jar of ras el hanout spice blend if it contains the same spices as the curry blend in your cupboard?

It’s infinitely better, and certainly more fun, to make your own spice blends. You can control the quality of the spices that go into the blend and create a blend that is uniquely yours. The only things you need are the spices themselves and a small coffee grinder that you use solely for grinding spices. An inexpensive Krups coffee grinder will do the trick.

Now about those spices. If you have easy access to a specialty spice store that stocks Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Indian spices, such as Tenzing Momo in Seattle’s Pike Place Market, you should be able to find all of the spices specified in this recipe. If not, however, you may not be able to locate dried ginger root, galangal, and orris root.

No worries on the ginger root front. You can substitute powdered ginger. Galangal and orris root are listed as optional, although they add an elusive something if you can get them. Galangal belongs to the ginger family and has a gingery, peppery, lemony bite. Orris root comes from the rhizome of the Florentine iris and lends floral, berry-like, and woodsy notes. (The easiest way to sample the flavors of these spices is to add a tablespoon of spice to a tea cup, pour boiling water over the top, wait 5 minutes, and sip.)

In my experimentation, both galangal and orris root were overshadowed by the more assertive flavors of the other spices in the blend. For floral notes, rose petals and lavender (available in tea shops) come through loud and clear. In fact, you must be careful not to overdo them. But do be alert when purchasing culinary grade rose buds or petals. If possible, smell them before purchasing. They should smell very much like fresh roses and should not have a woodsy, musky aroma.

I’ll be using ras el hanout in a few recipes in the coming months, beginning next week with Spring Chicken Tagine with Baby Artichokes, Green Olives, Preserved Lemon, and Apricots. But don’t wait until then to make this fragrant spice blend. It’s wonderful in coffee, hot or iced. Just add a teaspoon or so to dark roast coffee beans before grinding and then prepare coffee as usual.

My Ras el Hanout

I like to tweak this Moroccan spice blend. Each new batch is a little different. However, I always try to achieve a harmonious balance in which no single spice dominates. When I use ras el hanout in a dish, I often add a bit more of one or two of the spices, depending on the flavor profile I am trying to achieve. If I want a noticeable flavor and aroma of rose petal, for instance, I will add more to the dish. I might even add cumin and paprika, which are not usually included in the ras el hanout blend. The point is, ras el hanout is endlessly adaptable, and you should feel free to make it your own.

1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
1 eetlepel gemaalde mace
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon dried rosebud petals
1 tablespoon dried ginger root (or ground ginger)
1 tablespoon galangal, optional
1 tablespoon orris root, optional
1 teaspoon dried lavender
½ teaspoon dried anise seed
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper, optional
12 allspice berries
10 green cardamom pods
2 whole nutmegs, crushed
2 cloves
1 kaneelstokkie, gebreek

  1. To crush nutmegs, put into a Ziploc bag, seal, and then hit a few times with a mallet. The cinnamon stick can be broken in the same way.
  2. Measure all ingredients and add to a small coffee grinder used only for grinding spices.
  3. Pulse the grinder to begin and then let it run to grind the spices to a powder.
  4. Store airtight, in a cool, dark location. Gebruik binne 6 maande.

More LunaCafe Spice Blends

Cookin’ with Gas (inspiration from around the web)

About Susan S. Bradley

Intrepid cook, food writer, culinary instructor, creator of the LunaCafe blog, author of Pacific Northwest Palate: Four Seasons of Great Cooking, and former director of the Northwest Culinary Academy.


THE SAVORY FEAST by H. Lamar Thomas

Introducing a new section, THE SAVORY FEAST, which features a blend of poetry and the art of cooking as brought to us by Athens, Georgia Chef & poet, H. Lamar Thomas. Since it s getting close to the end of summer, I thought it would be a good time to sing the praises of the good ol Hamburger!

Editor's Note: These articles come from HLT's monthly column in Southern Distinction Magazineso references to stores, etc, are site specific to the Athens, GA area.

YOU BETTER START GRILLING, THE COALS ARE READY NOW
CAUSE THE BURGERS THEY ARE A CHANGING

Wherever in the world I live my favorite foods tend to be grilled over charcoal, wok/saut ed over ultra high heat or slow roasted. The in-between is exactly that, in between. Charcoal is one of those things that every cuisine has and loves it is an equalizer across the vast foodscape of the world. What we put upon the grill over this charcoal is what changes things. Hamburgers or, burger in general, is our exploration today. I am keeping it Southern, so don t talk burnt meat as BBQ, we are talking charcoal, grill and smoke, no burn, no gas, and no hot dog bun or yellow mustard. From 1833 at Delmonico s in New York City to Athens, GA of the 21st century the burger has seen many incarnations.

We are lucky to have the variety of clean meats and seasonings that we do. Just imagine the pantry of thirty years ago, for even in that close age there was a thing or two missing, and yet there was also a thing or two that they had on us. That thing was the free time to enjoy being together at the grill and at the table. My brick mason father had built a barbeque pit out of river slate and sleek, white to tan natural stone brick. It was beautiful and it burned wood charcoal not briquettes, but lump charcoal and wood and that is where the flavor is, in the smoke.

Always use grass fed beef, sustainable seafoods and as close to home bred turkey as you can find. When using tofu Fooks has it fresh, as well as one hour away at Super H Mart on Pleasanthill Road where you can get it straight from the tofu cooker all warm and delicious. Super H has it as spinach, carrot and regular.

Lump Charcoal brands: Big Green Egg (available at Birchmare Pool and Spa on Oneta Street in Athens), Crazy Good, Cowboy Lump, Royal Oak Lump, Royal Oak Brazilian and any coconut lump charcoal that you can find. I made the mistake of using Kingsford Lump (the ash king to me) in my BGE and had to clean it out and brush down the inside to get it all out of there, really, the grill actually rejected it and would not properly burn it. I do know that there are a lot of good woods like hickory, cherry, pecan, mesquite (small doses) and Jack Daniels barrel, out there that can be soaked in water and added to the coals to put the flavor into the smoke. As a note, Royal Oak produces Big Green Egg Lump charcoal, so. it s up to you which to buy, BGE or high end Royal Oak. Here is the web address for the best information on lump charcoals:
www.nakedwhiz.com/lumprankpoll.htm

Don t use instant light charcoal as it adds petroleum taste to the meat. I assume you know your grill so I won t go any further on this part other than to say that to take it up to as high heat as it will accept and then adjust your grill so that the temperature is down to a degree that you are comfortable grilling on. Suggested temperatures are between 250 (for smoke grilling) degrees and 650 degrees (ceramic grills and the Weber kettle). Spend the money, get a good grill.

So OK, hamburgers are a Coney Island discovery but it was the dreamy South and those modernist Californians who advanced this ground patty into a thing of divine invention. Ground fatty beef, ground dark and a little white meat turkey, seafood burgers that consist of a fatty fish like halibut or Pacific salmon and some crab and shrimp to balance it out, and a black bean burger are what we will be cooking. There are also a couple of slaw recipes to keep the mood of the outdoors and summertime going.

TRUFFLE AND GORGONAZOLA BEEF BURGER

My Favorite beef burger? Ground hangar and sirloin with duck fat, truffles or truffle oil, gorgonzola cheese and guajilla pepper. It is best to grind the duck fat together with the meat so that it is completely incorporated. If you don t have duck fat then use good old heart bursting lard. The thing is the fat. The fat binds and at the same time makes it juicier which means more flavors holding longer on the tongue, and yes that means tastier. If none of this is around then use bacon fat. If no bacon fat then use extra beef fat. If no beef fat then use butter. If no butter then use a high quality antibiotic free pasteurized cream cheese.
The gorgonzola has to be the dry style not the creamy for the meat to properly hold together. Gorgonzola of course is sweeter and has more subtle flavors than it s robust cousin, bleu cheese. Gorgonzola is green veined which in many cheese lover circles means sweet and salty, rich, creamy, deep flavors that are not as immediate to the senses as bleu cheese. Gorgonzola and ground meat are genuinely attracted to each other in ways that are no different than classic New York cheddar and roast beef sandwiches, one is absorbed by the other such that the flavors combine and become richer rather than disappearing into one another.

Guajilla is a Southwestern American pepper that is similar to New Mexico pepper in that it has a medium heat and is kinda sweet which means great companion to the other ingredients to our beef burger. You will see these peppers in the dry herb section in the Mexican and Latin aisle at the grocery store, or just go to a Super Mercado and buy it there, and while you are in the Latin grocery store buy some Aji Amarillo pepper and give it a whirl with your summertime ceviche dishes for quick taste of the spicy sea.

Fresh ground really does matter. Buy what you like and cut into cubes that will fit into your Kitchen Aide grinder attachment, or whatever kind of meat grinder you have.
1 pound sirloin, cut into cubes
1 pound hangar, cut in cubes, fat and all
4 ounces duck fat (or any of the suggested)
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 teaspoon guajilla pepper
teaspoon cumin
teaspoon ground coriander
4 ounces dry gorgonzola
1/3 cup panko bread crumbs

Rub the cubed meats with the fats and spices. Grind. Fold and knead the gorgonzola and panko lightly into the mix. Do not mix a lot, just enough to incorporate it. Pat the meat into 7 ounce patties. This should give you six or seven burgers depending on you and your scale.

Of course this burger is best on any soft kaiser bread or even a California style batard. Lettuce, red onion, tomatoes and a good seasoned mayonnaise always add to the thrill of the ketchup scene. To get your mayonnaise into the Southwestern thing add a teaspoon of Cholula into a cup mayonnaise and mix them together.

And what s an outdoor grill party without slaw y all? Not much, not much at all, so here is a fun tasty slaw:

Southwestern Cabbage Slaw
1 red cabbage, shredded
2 carrots, shredded
2 red apples, peeled and diced
red onion, fine dice
cup cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
cup olive oil
1 tablespoon white granulated sugar
1 teelepel komyn
1 teelepel knoffel, fyngekap
teaspoon table salt
teaspoon fine ground black pepper

Now we will quietly shuffle from the beef section over into the once seasonal cooling chamber of fowl. Keep your birds separate. Grind only the turkey for this recipe. You will use leg and breast meat in order to get a bit of real flavor into it. If it is all breast meat then you might as well just do tofu, which ain t all bad, it s just not as flavorful. You want flavor. Leg and thigh meat have flavor. Breast meat is more about texture and low fat. Grind fresh, grind your own keep this rule steady and don t go for the preground meats in the grocers cooler unless you ask the butcher on duty to do for you, then you know what is going into your body.
I like ground turkey burgers and tend to give them a heavy hand with the seasonings of the subcontinent India and Bangladesh. The spice mix is garam masala. Garam (hot) masala (spice) is easy to make and even easier to buy. But I have found that it s always more rewarding to make my own in the good old molcajete, which is a huge mortar and pestle made of Thai granite river rock. You can buy the Mexican and South American ones made of lava rock as well. You cure it by crushing sea salt and rice into it to clean the dust and loose pieces out. Once this is done you have a remarkable piece of kitchen equipment. A two cup or larger molcajete is used for making tortilla batter, salsa, crushing herbs and spices and really good pesto.

The first recipe for garam masala is by Madhur Jaffrey. Look for her books on Indian cuisine they are essential for Westerners exploring the many cuisines of India.

GARAM MASALA MADHUR JAFFREY
1 tablespoon cardamom seeds
1 bark cinnamon or 1 tablespoon
1 teaspoon black cumin (shahjeera)
1 teelepel naeltjies
1 teelepel swartpeperkorrels
teaspoon nutmeg
Mix together and grind by hand in your mortar and pestle or use a coffee grinder, both work equally well.

GARAM MASALA SOUTHEAST ASIA
You will toast the ingredients before grinding them together for this one. I have adapted it somewhat so that the ingredients are more easily found at a regular grocery store. If you cannot find them all then go to Dekalb Farmers Market and have the best afternoon ever just going through all of the worlds produce and dry goods.
2 tablespoons cardamom
5 cloves
(the pods, if not then one tablespoon powder)
2 pieces mace 
(the pods, if not then one tablespoon powder)
2 teelepels kaneel
5 tablespoons cumin
2 eetlepels koljandersaad
1 tablespoons fennel seeds 

1 teaspoon black peppercorns 

1/2 teaspoon fenugreek

After toasting immediately grind and set aside. Store in a cool dark place in an airtight container.

Now you can add ginger, sesame seeds, turmeric, bay leaves, star anise, garlic and even lemon grass to build your own favorite flavor garam masala. I like to add bay leaves and ginger. Here s the cool part: you can make it any way you like the taste to be once you have learned the pungent and aromatic taste that a classic garam masala is able to produce in your various dishes. Garam masala, though the name implies hot is not a HOT spice blend. It is aromatic and is used in high heat cooking. Add at the end of the cook cycle, not at the beginning as it will lessen somewhat as it cooks.

GARAM MASALA ATHENS, GEORGIA
You can find most of these ingredients at Fooks on Baxter Street in Athens, and if you cannot find them then ask Karen where you can get them or if she can get them in for you. She is the owner of Fooks and loves food so once you get her going on ingredients and cool flavors she will help you out any way she can. Great little store, great addition to our city. Also you can find a lot of this at Earthfare in Little Five Points, this is one of those places that has a just about everything healthy and Eastern, and of course lot s of organics.
1 teaspoon cardamom, ground
1 teaspoons ginger, ground
4 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoons cumin seed
1 teaspoons black cumin seeds (if you can t find then use sesame)
teaspoons black cardamom (optional, if you can find it use it)]
teaspoons cloves, ground
teaspoons cinnamon, ground
teaspoons crushed bay leaves
1 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 tablespoons honey granules

Again, toast the spices and then grind them into a powder. Tersyde gestel. These masala mixes will keep for several months.

Let s cook: grind the turkey.
1 pound turkey thigh with skin, chopped
8 ounces turkey leg with skin, chopped
8 ounces turkey breast
3 eiergele
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
Grind it all together. Set aside to cool in refrigerator. When it is 40 degrees take it out of the refrigerator and pat into burgers. Make 8. Be gentle.

Grill at 450 degrees until they are 140 degrees internal temperature. You can keep track of this with any number of grill thermometers that you insert, set the temperature and alarm and it will tell you when it is ready. At this point dust each turkey burger with a half teaspoon of your garam masala.

If you cannot find a good eggplant relish then just brush 8 thick slices of eggplant with a strong extra virgin olive oil and a teaspoon salt and grill with the turkey burgers. The cheese here is Sweetgrass Gouda. Sweetgrass dairy is a southern Georgia cheese maker whose Gouda has a grassy and sharp tendency that brings out the more sublime nature of the cheeses.
8 slices Sweetgrass gouda, 1 ounce each
8 slices big hearty summer tomato, any kind
4 ounces eggplant relish or grilled eggplant
8 big potato kaiser buns

Melt the havarti on top the burgers during the last two minutes grill time. Toast the buns and press the eggplant into the bun. Set burger on top then the tomato. If you need a sauce then a little Major Grey s Chutney will do fine and if you do use chutney on this burger then you will want to spice up the turkey a bit more with Pickapeppa Sauce or the new reliable Jalapeno Tabasco.

The side for this one is a watermelon radish salad. If you have access to wild greens like dandelion, mint, various chicory and even Jerusalem artichokes then use them in this little relish mix to bring out more of the flavors of Georgia.

BACKYARD HARVEST SWEET N SOUR RADISH SALAD
2 cups thinly shredded watermelon radish (2 medium size radishes)
1/1 cup napa cabbage, shredded
1/2 teelepel sout
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced on a microplane
1 tablespoon Mirin
1 tablespoon sugar
Combine ingredients and chill.

Now get those fish stick and filet O fish images out of your head and I ll be back in a few minutes after you are cured of this affliction. Our seafood burger consists of good, fresh fish and scallops and no frozen at sea bits of dyed and processed things and stuff.

We will top our seafood burger with a Mediterranean spice mix from Northern Africa (Morocco and Tunisia actually) that is used throughout the Middle East and of course here in America as a table spice and as an ingredient. Harissa is sharp and yet somewhat soothing at the same time. This recipe is straight from the master of Mid-East cooking Paula Wolfert s book Mediterranean Cooking. There are also three other harissa recipes that I have adapted over the years. Once you learn the basics of this spice mix/table condiment you will really get into the possible variations.

HARISSA
1 pod each ancho, guajilla and New Mexico peppers
1 knoffelhuisie, fyngedruk
1 teaspoon coriander, ground
1 teaspoon caraway seeds, ground
1 red bell pepper, roasted and peeled
1 teaspoon Mediterranean sea salt
2 ounces Sicilian extra virgin olive oil
Toast everything except the oil until it begins to smoke, Transfer to your mortar and pestle and grind to a powder, then add the olive oil and make it into a paste. This is a basic harissa. Harissa is another one of those mixes that will easily become a standard in your refrigerator right next to salsa, pesto, ketchup, brown mustard and seasoned mayonnaise.

HARISSA ATHENS, GA
3 ounces dried red chilies. If you have anchos, add or use only ancho. It s up to your tastes.
1 clove small garlic, peeled and crushed in your pestle.
1 teaspoon ground coriander seed
1 teaspoon ground caraway seed
1/2 teelepel gemaalde speserye
1 medium red bell pepper, roasted and peeled
1 teelepel sout
4 ounces virgin olive oil (if you can, use Spanish for this)

First roast the red bell pepper in your oven at 450. It will take about 20 minutes. You want it to turn black, but not burned. Watch closely, and don t worry about opening the oven too frequently. When it has cooked, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

When it has cooled, unwrap it and drop it into cold water. Peel the blackened skin off of the pepper. Be careful not to tear it up too much. Some of it will come apart, but that s no big deal as long as you keep most of the flesh intact. Rub the seeds and pith (the white part) out of the pepper with your fingers. Tersyde gestel.

Here s the tricky part: sometimes I like the seeds in hot peppers for their extra heat. If you just want the flavor of the flesh of the pepper, break off the stem and shake out the seeds, then soak the peppers in very hot water for at least thirty minutes. Drain and dry the peppers with a paper towel, or if you have one, a cheese cloth. Now, put all the ingredients except the oil into a food processor (or use your mortar and pestle) and grind them into a paste. Slowly pour in the oil until it becomes a thick paste. That s a classic harissa.

You can play with the flavors by adding cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and cilantro. It s a great condiment and once you learn how to use it you will find hundreds of places to mix it in. When you are cooking with harissa, just heat 4 tablespoons oil and stir in 1 teaspoon of tomato paste, cook it through and then add a tablespoon of harissa, then add the liquids that you want to cook into a sauce. In the present case we ll use apple juice and white wine, but that does not restrict your options, as tomato fillets and tomato juice, or cream, or chicken stock all work.

TABLE CONDIMENT:
1/4 cup harissa
2 tablespoons apple juice
1 eetlepel lemmetjiesap
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar or yuzu
2 eetlepels olyfolie

Mix it all together in a bowl. From this you can add harissa to salad dressings, brush it on meats, stir into rice or cous cous, or add to a favorite sauce to bring out a distinct North African flavor.

Still with me now? The reason I give all of these alternate sauce, relish and condiment recipes is so you will be better equipped to always offer something new yet familiar with your meals. Keeping it new and interesting while at the same time comforting is quite the challenge but is a challenge easily me when you know more and more about the world of cuisine.

SEABURGER ATHENS 2008
Now that we have all of the sauces and toppings lined up let s make that burger. If halibut season is going well then use this fish or black cod, and if neither then wild salmon or striped bass there is always something good happening. Arctic charr are doing very well as a farm fish. It is a kind of salmon but will live well in fresh water long enough to harvest.
1 pound halibut, fillet
pound bay scallops
pound arctic charr, fillet (if not available use Pacific salmon)
1/3 pound tofu (this will bind it all together)
1 ounce tapioca starch (for more binding)
1 tablespoon Hawaiian pink sea salt
1 tablespoon turmeric

This preparation is different from the others, as we will grind this in the food processor. Pulse one third of the ingredients at a time in the machine. Put in one third, pulse in fifteen second intervals until it is somewhat coarse and fluffy.
When you have coarse cut all of the seafood set it aside and let it rest.
Pat into 8 burgers and then dust with toasted breadcrumbs. Grill on very high heat. On the last turn paint each burger with the Athens, GA Harissa. Let it cook for two minutes after seasoning.
12 slices sour dough bread, real fresh sour dough
1 ounce grain mustard
1 ounce ketchup
2 ounces bread and butter pickles, chopped

Combine the mustard, ketchup and pickles together and brush on the sour dough bread. Place the grilled seaburger on the bread and eat. The best things with this are french fries, onion rings, spinach salad with apple harissa and sweet iced tea.
I hope your afternoons are like lemony sweet iced tea, like creamy iced coffee, like a cool glass of lemonade, a Dr. Pepper or Sprite, or even just lazily sipped like a tall glass of Red Zinger tea, hhhmmm and yum and then that Viet love letter the taro and coconut smoothie. Yeah, let yourself linger a bit and just enjoy a lazy summer day, maybe even tell someone that you love them, that you care, that you want to have them over to share dinner sometime. This is the hottest month, so make it cool, make it loving, make a great burger and eat like there is no tomorrow.

FOR JORDY MAE, FOR DAN, FOR A LIFE OF LOVE

Seasick on humidity and sticky hot winds,
Watching roses wilt beneath the unforgiving sun
I reach over to this glass I remember a friend passed,
This tender sweet orange pekoe tea,
Yeah, there s more than one way to beat the heat,
There is a way to make it all better.
Sipping, nodding my head to Drive By Truckers
On the stereo, singing on about Ronnie and Neal,
Singing about that light at the 40 Watt.
Looking around and back to the house,
Looking for love on a heatstroke day,
And I find it there by the counter in the kitchen
Making the salads to match all my burgers,
And her smile is like honey and smoke,
Like the steam off of ice at the top of my glass
She is cool, she is warm,
She is all woman In one beautiful frame,
In one tiny voice she is grace and love,
And me, I am her husband,
And all of this makes any day great,
All of this, even if I were alone would
Be a beautiful day, a beautiful day
To do something warm, something loving
For any one of my friends, Don, BJ, Mike or Tom,
For any day with friends is a good day,
And any day with friends, love and a smoky grill
Is a fantastic day, is almost as good
As a day out fly fishing on the sea,
Passing the time casting for snook with a beloved friend,
Fishing for that champion jack just another cast away.
And for all the friends who ve come and gone
I raise a chicken leg and thank God for you all
For you all who are brothers in study and life,
In poetry, food and philosophy we are all one.